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SUMMARY:
Notes describe hiring a Lepcha collector named Danon, severe snow and hail at Tsomgo Tso, attempts at fishing and bird collecting, and excellent bungalow provisions. Mentions cine film of the Karponang–Tsomgo road, pressing a primula, caravans struggling in deep snow with losses, and arrangements involving Bombay and a return to Gangtok.

CONTENT:
Ludlow 6. We have a Lepcha-collector called Danon to help us with flowers. He has worked for the Botanical Survey of India and should be very helpful as he knows his flowers thoroughly and even tells us the scientific names of many.

B.1 & 2 good

inches deep. The Tsomgo Tso is free of snow except at the upper end. Ten tufted pochard on the lake. Too wet to try for trout, which were put in by Bailey. The chowkidar (watchman) says he has seen them in summer at the lower end, not at the top. These bungalows are the best I have ever seen. They are equipped with cutlery and crockery, so that one need not open up one's own.

Cine film B.2. 0-45'. Views on the Karponang-Tsomgo road as far as Lagyap La.

There are no stores, except wood. The wood used for burning is chiefly rhododendron, which gives out great heat. Hail and snow here all afternoon, looking bad for tomorrow. Pressed the first flower today - a small primula (P. gracilipes (L & S)). We are using for shooting birds, .22 rifles with dust shot and .410 bores with 2 1/2" cases of dust shot. The former will usually kill up to five yards, the latter to 25".

B.1 & 2 sent Bombay 10th May. Return to Gangtok.

7th May. TSOMGO. Still clouded this morning and fine snow falling. A caravan of mules came down this morning: they had crossed yesterday, and reported having lost two mules and a man. So we decided to stay here. Snow is about 10" deep. It has been thawing all day, but the sun can't get out for any length of time. Tried fishing this morning with fly and frogs. The water was too cold for the frog, and we saw no signs of fish. Shot a few birds. 3.0 pm. A caravan has just come in from 2 miles up the hill. They took nine hours to do the two miles, and yesterday lost two mules, and had to have 40 coolies from Chupitang to help. They report up to seven

B.2. Tsomgo dak bungalow. Tsomgo Tso. A caravan from Tibet arriving at Tsomgo having taken 9 hrs for 2 miles.

SUMMARY:
The party remains near Tsomgo waiting for the pass to open, collecting near Lagyap La, with the diarist noting a likely delay in reaching Gangtok by the 21st. On 9 May at Tsomgo (Changu), most mules returned to Gangtok with Danong to seek his brother and send food; after collecting birds during a brief clear spell, two lamas—envoys of the Tashi Lama—passed with a 50‑mule caravan bound for Shigatse despite heavy snow.

CONTENT:
8
down for food for ourselves, and remain here till the pass
opens. We can collect a fair amount near Lagyap La
above - more than we could at Karponang. It is still
snowing and raining hard here. The bungalow is quite
reasonably comfortable and with plenty of rhododendron wood,
we can keep it warm. As I have to be in Gangtok
on 21st, it looks as if I would not be able to get over
the pass till after that - it would hardly be worth while.

9th May. TSOMGO (Changu). All except three mules returned to Gangtok
this morning, with Danong (Lepcha Collector) who will try to find out what
has happened to his brother, and will send up food for
us tomorrow. It was fine in the early morning, and
thawing hard, but by 8:30 rain came on. We walked
down three miles to collect some birds, and then rode home
for lunch about 12:00, when it again cleared up for an
hour. The two lamas who have come from China to
arrange or discuss about the return of the Tashi Lama
passed Tsomgo at 12:30 with a caravan of 50 mules.
They had with them a number of coolies who
are to remain with them till their caravan gets over
the pass. We thought that they would manage it, with all
these men, but shortly after they left us, the snow came
on again heavily, and now I can't see how they can
manage. If they do, we hope to also. The Tibetan is a

B. 3. contd. Two lamas, envoys of the Tashi Lama, on their way to Shigatse, pass Tsomgo with a large caravan.

SUMMARY:
The diary notes collecting near Lagyap la with birds feeding on blooming rhododendrons amid rain and snow. At Tsomgo (Changu), snow was melting, coolies reported the pass fair, and a lost mule returned, though their own mules were delayed. The party moved toward Chumbi Valley to Chumpithang, disputing a bill from a Gangtok Kazi while en route to Yatung.

CONTENT:
towards Lagyap la, to collect. There is not so much snow
there also more birds are to be found. A few rhododendrons
were in bloom, & various birds - finches & sun birds were
feeding on the flowers & fertilising them. It came on to rain
& later snow at 10.15 & cleared up more or less at
2.30 pm. Since we left Calcutta on 22nd April, there has
not yet been one day wholly fine & usually part of the
day has been very wet indeed.

12th May. TSOMGO. (CHANGU). Another fine night, & snow
melting hard all day although sky overcast. A few coolies
came over the pass from Chubitang, & report road fair.
One of the mules which fell off the road seven days ago
was brought in today - very thin, but otherwise alright.
Our mules did not arrive, as they should have done. We did
little all day but pack up.

To Chumbi Valley.
13th May. CHUMPITHANG. 12600'. 10 miles. Last night was a lovely
night again, but there was no sign of the mules when we got
up at 4.30. However they arrived about 6.30 in time to let
us get away at last. The Kazi who owns the mules sent
them up late, & had the audacity to send with them a
bill for Rs. 90/-. We will of course refuse to pay, as the
contract was to take us from Gangtok to Yatung. If the
pass can't be crossed, that is none of our fault. All the
Gangtok Kazis are stinkers, but I'm afraid I will have some

SUMMARY:
At Tso Burnag Lake Camp, the writer describes fir- and rhododendron-covered hillsides, notes deer sign, and mentions Gulla suffering severe pain after Lumsden treated his poisoned foot. The writer and Lumsden bathe in the cold lake at high altitude. On 16th August, they halt and search hillsides east of the lakes, find no new plants, and the writer briefly encounters a herd of burhel without success.

CONTENT:
neither so big nor so interesting. Hillsides well covered with fir for 500 ft. then rhododendron. Many crenophilum about, and much deer, and there are said to be kuling also. Gulla had a rotten day today. His foot is poisoned, Lumsden cut it 2 days ago, putting in a local anaesthetic in a septic wound. The result is awful pain to poor old Gulla. L. has made a mess of everything he has done in that way, and can only give iodine with safety. This afternoon, as it was sunny, Lumsden and I had a bathe in the lake, which shelves down pretty quickly just 10 yards in front of our camp. It was cold of course, though not as bad as I would have thought. The temp of the water was 51°. Swimming at 13000' is hard work, and I only went out 10 yards or so. It was lovely, especially when out!

Tso Burnag Lake Camp.
16th August. Halt. Tried the hillside to the E of the lakes. But they held nothing new, and the only gentian in any numbers was G. stictantha (?? Przewalskii), which was not yet out. I walked almost into a herd of 20 burhel, but had my eyes on a cliff. They were off at once, though I just had time to change ammunition and have two snapshots at them without doing any damage.

SUMMARY:
At Tso Bunang Lake Camp, the writer questions K.W.’s purported new plant and notes a yellow rhododendron; Tenduk arrives unwell and is found to have gonorrhoea contracted in 1934 at Cyanbe. On 18 August they remain in camp developing photos and repairing gear amid mixed weather. On 19 August the writer explores west while Danzing collects notable gentians and a delphinium from the Changchu La toward Senguti, and Ludlow secures a second specimen of a new bird.

CONTENT:
148

K.W.'s new one, though I have my doubts, 2078: a yellow Rhododendron 2085 (R. wardii 2085). Tenduk arrived with fever and not looking at all well. After a lot of talk we found he had got gonorrhoea, contracted while with us in 1934 at Cyanbe. It is not too bad, and hope will answer to treatment.

Tso Bunang Lake Camp
18th August. Halt. I stayed in camp all day and developed photos, mended boxes and repacked stores. Each day we have had some rain and some sun, always overcast.

Tso Bunang Lake Camp
19th August. Halt. I went up the hills to the west, but saw little but what appears to be a gentian very like Waltoni (See Aug. 20), No. 2097 (Gen. tianshanica), and one which may be G. stictantha again 2099 (G. przewalskii 2099). I sent Danzing up the valley leading to Senguti, to a pass called the Changchu La. It usually rains up there, so I thought it might contain some different varieties. It did, and he got a fine gentian, which I hope may turn out to be new. It is a white one with blue markings outside, and very long lobes which open right out, 2092 (G. otophora 2092). He also got another gentian which we have not yet seen, 2095 (Lomatogonium deltoideum 2095), and a pretty delphinium, of a very rich deep blue purple colour, 2096 (Delphinium viscosum). Ludlow got a second specimen of a new bird today. It looks very much like a

SUMMARY:
The diarist reflects on gentians, noting color variation of G. amoena between dry and wet zones, and describes the variable weather around Tso Bunang. At Tso Bunang Lake Camp, they halted as Danong and Tenduk returned from the Tahar La trip with supplies, including gentians from the pass such as Swertia handelii and G. nankeenis.

CONTENT:
Przewalskii 2015 2033
nankeenis 2054 - Swertia 624
otophoroides 2073 147
Otophara 2092
algida 2098
2063 orange-white

Gentians
Last night I was thinking of the gentians we had seen, and where we had seen them, and it certainly appears that all the creamy ones come from the dry zone, or at any rate the transition zone. Wilkie describes G. amoena as light colored, but sometimes blue all over. As far as I have seen, it is common up here, it is always white or cream in the dry zone, or N. of the main range. We collected it twice S. of the range, in the wet zone, once at the Ma-ha once at Sanden, in each case it was a beautiful rich blue.

Tso Bunang is a curious place. All yesterday the S. lake was in shadow, the E. side was in rain, our camp half in sun with a little rain, and the hill to the N. at the end of the lakes in sun all day.

Tso Bunang Lake Camp
17th August. Halt. Found nothing here. Danong and Tenduk came back from the Tahar La trip. They brought some food stuff.

Among the best were three gentians from the top of the pass.
Swertia handelii G. nankeenis
20

SUMMARY:
Notes a ruined iron chain bridge below Tsetang and a night spent in a newly renewed but empty Dzong. The party travels to Lagyari/Lhagyari, halts for transport arranged by a helpful ruling nun, then crosses the Potrang La to Lasor, recording birds and early-season botanical observations.

CONTENT:
27 March Ludlow 22. "No European seems to have travelled this stage. Bailey avoided it - p. 313 F.K.W. u. 1924."

top joint & hurt my wrist. It might have been much worse. There are still the remains of an old iron chain suspension bridge.

Chain bridge 1 1/2 m below Tsetang - two huge piles of rocks & two chains still hanging down from one.

No one was in the Dzong which had just been renewed, so we spent the night in it, & were very comfortable. The Tsangpo here takes a very sharp 100° turn to the North. (70 13100' see Ludlow p. 22-23.)

27th March. Lagyari. 15 miles. Perfect weather & v. hot. Started at 7.0 am, in at 4.0 pm. Transport mostly bullock, & again many boxes badly damaged. Half way up we came across geese & shot three. Also saw a Sheldrake & some pintail, mallard & teal. Lagyari is a lovely place: Dzong & monastery on the edge of a cliff on the river bank, & beautiful wooded flats below, in which we are camped. They threaten to keep us here a day, but we still hope for the best. Ludlow has gone to the Dzong to call for both of us. There are no flowers out here yet, though Iris (ensata?) is 1" above ground & there is a very small gentian showing flowers here & there. P. tibetica not yet in flower. This place seems independent of Lhasa & is ruled, & ruled well by a nun.

28th March. Halted Lhagyari. Fine. As ponies could not be produced in time, we had to halt. However the nun gave orders for donkeys & bullocks to come today & take on as much kit as we could spare - about 28 loads. The remainder will be carried by mules & ponies tomorrow. We lunched today in the gompa, a beautifully clean place. The nun is a fine looking woman, related to many people of importance - of some importance herself. She was very friendly & helpful. From here to Tsona is only 4 days march, so this might be a good way home. There is little snow of course up here in winter.

29th March. Lasor (12,200' ap). 16 miles. Beautiful day. Left at 7.15 am, in at 4.0 pm. The ascent to the Potrang La (16500 ft) is steeper than we expected. Gradually the hills become more vegetated, & there are many dwarf junipers & a small Rhododendron near the top. But the East side shows a more marked contrast, & the rainfall on the E must be very considerably more than on the West. From the very top, it is apparent. Rhododendron covers the hillside (R. lepidotum). Among these we saw many old stalks of Primula - P. macrophylla(?) & P. sikkimensis. There are also gentians, these seen being much too early for flowers on the north side of the main range & at this altitude.

SUMMARY:
Diary entries record travel from Tsetang through Rong Dzong, Lhagyari, Lasor and Lhapso to Lenda, with delays due to slow transport and negotiations over animal hire rates. Notes include hospitality from local officials and the Jetsung Kusho’s sister, and botanical observations of Gentiana waltonii and Androsace with seed collected.

CONTENT:
15th Nov. Rong Dzong. Left Tsetang camp at 9.20 & Tsetang at 10.0. In at 4.0 pm. Last kit, on bullocks, in at 6.0 pm. A fine still day. We had long arguments about passports with the Tsetang Dzongpon's scribe - a nasty man. At last he let us go when we paid sangs 3 per donkey & 7 per pony. This was at any rate very much better than our passport rate of 6 & 12.

16th Nov. Lhagyari Dz. Left at 9.0 am: in at 5.0 pm. Only half the kit got in last night. Remainder is not even all in at 10.0 this morning. The distance, given by Bailey at 16 miles, seems much nearer 20 miles. We all agree on this. I suggested we pay 2 sangs per donkey & 4 per pony at Rong. This was cheerfully agreed to by the headmen & Dzongpon's "trap". As a result of the slow transport, we cannot leave here on 17th. Coming up the valley there was a good deal of G. Waltoni & two sp. of Androsace, seed of one of which I took. The Jetsung Kusho here has gone to Lhasa, but her sister is very good to us, & has produced all we need for dinner, including food, plates etc., as our kitchen stuff had not come in.

17th & 18th Nov. HALT. We were unable to get transport in time to leave even on 18th, but most of the kit went then to a village 3 miles short of the Potrang La.

19th Nov. Lasor. Left at 7.30: in at 5.0 pm. Kit which left with us got in at 9.0 pm.

20th Nov. Lhapso Dz. An easy day of only 7 miles. Cloud came up by midday & it was dull the rest of the day. The Lhapso Dzongpon was very good to us. He had been personally to Lasor the day before & produced everything we wanted.

21st Nov. Lenda. Left at 7.50: in at 2.45: transport 3.30 to 4.0 pm. Coolies & transport were very good though hardly halted anywhere. The Lhapso Dzongpon arrangements were very good indeed.

SUMMARY:
Arrived at Tsetang and were welcomed by trader Pedong Dorji, who may help secure mules for travel to Dongkar Dz and assist with arrangements. News from Lhasa describes a serious conflict with arrests, including Reting Rimpoche, Phunkhang Shape, and others, rumors of Reting’s death, and weapons taken to Sera; Reting was reportedly imprisoned in the Tse Potala.

CONTENT:
11th May: Tsetang. We were off in good time at 7.0 & in at 1.0, being met by Pedong Dorji, a half Sikkimese who used to live in Pedong, who now trades here. He asked us to his house, & in spite of all, I accepted, as we hope that he will be able to produce mules to take us to Dongkar Dz. At any rate he will certainly be of the greatest help to us in making arrangements. Since Lhagyari we have heard more news of the war in Lhasa, it seems to have been a pretty serious affair. Although said to be over now, it is not all over, as the fate of many people has yet to be decided. Reting Rimpoche is arrested, so is Phunkhang Shape. Phunkhang Se was also arrested, but he has now been released though he has lost official status altogether. Sadutshang's eldest brother is another, he is in a bad way, as his monk brother is said to have taken all the rifles from S's house to Sera for the fight. It seems that Halu & Surkhang Shape got Reting to come to Lhasa by saying that the old Regent had called him to take over power. He came and was imprisoned in the Tse Potala. A man came through from Lhasa today, he says Reting is dead. He had become seriously involved because they found copies of letters to the Chinese when he was arrested. It is difficult to find out how many were killed. Here reports

SUMMARY:
While halted at Tsetang, the party sent Pimbo back to Gonkar to recover 11 boxes of kit, which he found near Chora. They met the Ladakhi trader Ata Ulla, who spoke about Bailey, showed bird eggs from near Lhagyari, and helped procure a sheep. On 26 March they marched to Rong (Rongchaka) Dzong with poor bullock transport, and the writer suffered a minor fall from a pony.

CONTENT:
Atta Ulla Khan, a Ladakhi merchant trading in Tsetang

Kongka reluctantly to send Pimbo back to Gonkar to find out what has happened. That may mean a four or more days stay in this filthy place. This has made us vow not to stay in any more houses now. They really are too dirty for words. On arrival here we saw Ata Ulla, an old Ladakhi trader who has been here for 30 years or more. He lives here with a few other Mohammedans—all of whom dress as Tibetans, and all of whom are despised by our own servants. However I am sending Culla and Daud to see them today. Tsetang is quite a picturesque place from a distance, with two red and brown gompas and all the rest of the houses whitewashed. The village lies under a hillside, faces north. There are more trees than we have seen elsewhere—all willows and poplars, the poplars being in many cases very old and fine trees. The river narrows a great deal here. We are told kowas can go down another day's march, but are not advised to use them further.

24th March. Halt Tsetang. We had to halt here to allow the 11 boxes of kit left behind to be found.

25th March. Halt Tsetang. Pimbo went back yesterday 24th to look for it, and luckily found it before reaching Chora. He returned at 6:00 pm with the kit. These two days have been beastly. The wind and dust are perfectly awful and everything gets full of sandy dust. We have seen a good deal of Ata Ulla who begs us to come and talk each day. It is really a question of listening to him talk about Bailey. He showed us two eggs, properly blown, of what he said were crossoptilon from near Lhagyari, 5 others of which he gave to Bailey. And he told us all about Bailey giving him a gun for which he had a few cartridges. With great difficulty we have got a sheep for Rs 2/12. They don't like killing them this month they say, but seem to do it themselves all the same. Ata Ulla has been a great help in this way.

26th March. Rong (Rongchaka) Dzong. 14 miles. A lovely day, but spoilt by the awful transport. With some difficulty we got the transport to turn up early and were off by 7:45. But it was nearly all bullocks, and our boxes suffered very badly. Although a good path and only 14 miles, the last dozen loads only got in at 7:45 pm—12 hours for 14 miles. I only rode a short way, but when I did mount, the pony went off splitarse, fell on its head and threw me over its neck. I was lucky in being on a good bit of path and only skinned my finger badly, and dislocated the...