Showing 14 results

SUMMARY:
Notes on film rolls B.3–B.5 record scenes from the ascent to the Natu La, including a telephoto of Chomolhari and views from Chumpitang. The entry describes setting out after persuading Williamson, traversing deep snow to the pass with views over the plains of India, then returning to collect birds and one flower (Primula Stewartii) in a fir forest.

CONTENT:
B3 / B4
B 3 & 4 good -
B.3. finished: Ludlow in bungalow.
B.4. full roll taken of scenes on the ascent to the Natu La. At the top. telephoto of Chomolhari
B.5. First 50 ft of views from Chumpitang.

difficulty in persuading Williamson. Eventually we got off at 7.40 on the only perfect day we have yet had. The snow was then hard enough to walk on, & remained so for the first two miles or more. Until 2 miles from the top there was no difficulty at all, & we were surprised to find how easy the pass had become in the last two days. The last 2 miles ascent are fairly steep & were hard work for the mules. As long as they kept in the narrow hardened path they got along well, but when once they put a foot off it, they sank into deep soft snow. There were still some five feet or so of snow at the top. We reached the top in a little over four hours, & had a lovely view: to the South was a low sea of clouds over the plains of India, & to the N.E. was Chomolhari, clear but not very distinct. Chomolhari means "Goddess of the mountain pass". After half an hour we started down again & the first 100 yds caused nearly every mule to fall in very soft thick snow: but no damage done. Ludlow & I reached here about 3.0 pm. very tired indeed. But after a rest & some whisky we went out after birds for 1 1/2 hours, & got a few good specimens. Collected only one flower - Primula Stewartii I think, very like Denticulata. This is a most beautiful place in the middle of a fir forest with, across the valley, a fine line of snow hills leading up to the Natu La. The evening light through the trees on the

SUMMARY:
Notes discussions with H.H. on a new treaty affecting Bhutan, mention of Tasho Jigme’s freedom to travel, and soldiers sent up the Bumthang road to collect flowers including Prim. bracteosa, a Magnolia, and a Daphne. On 8th April they watched Bhutanese dancers and later hosted H.H. for a long session reminiscing about Calcutta and P.O.'s Gould, Williamson, Bailey, and Bell; letters from Kalimpong reported Ludlow’s departure and Norman’s sale of Glenulli.

CONTENT:
almost 300." I hope something may be done, because certainly already many lakhs of rupees worth of damage has been done in the last 30 years or so. H.H. was undoubtedly interested, & doubly so as the new Treaty, although it promises 5 lakhs of cash annually to Bhutan, also says this may be stopped at any time if the Treaty is not kept. This sounds like a convenient loophole. We also talked about Tasho Jigme, & H.H. said that he could travel where he liked in Bhutan. I still hope to have further talks, as H.H. seems to like it. H.H. sent three soldiers up the Bumthang road to see what flowers they could get, & they brought back Prim. bracteosa, a Magnolia & a Daphne that were interesting.

8th April. Our time here has not all been lazy. H.H. has entertained us fully & we have entertained him too. We were down on 6th to watch Bhutanese dancers, male & female, & the next day we had H.H. up for a good long session, 1.0pm till 5.30. He was then in great form reminiscing, mostly about his Calcutta visit & various doings of P.O.'s Gould, Williamson, Bailey or Bell. Mostly he talks of Bailey, of whom he certainly has the highest opinion. He would very much like to see Bailey again, & thinks he may come here sometime yet. I know Bailey is anxious to come, & if he does, he will get a welcome. We have not bothered much about flowers, but took a few more yesterday from round about, including Albizzia Sherriffii (18657), which is a fine tree. Tobgye sent a few letters on from Kalimpong, which arrived yesterday. No special news, except that Ludlow got off alright, & that Norman had sold Glenulli.

SUMMARY:
Travel in rain from Karponang toward Gangtok is noted, alongside frustration with Williamson over inaction on Tibet permission. On 23rd May at Chumbitang, a well-attended wedding took place with ceremonies at the White Hall and lunch at the Residency, supported by the Maharani of Sikkim; Waters played the organ and the writer acted as official photographer.

CONTENT:
a little rain, below Karponang mist till near Gangtok, where it seems beastly hot and muggy. Mules came on well and were in by 1.0 p.m. Williamson has done nothing at all about our Tibet permission, and presumably will do nothing. He thinks of nothing and no one but himself, and his motto is undoubtedly 'Anything for a quiet life'; this attitude in any question one of complete inactivity for as long as possible.

23rd May. CHUMBITANG. 34 miles. The wedding was a great success, except that it rained all morning. W and I rode down to the White Hall accompanied by three bands. The Hall was beautifully decorated and was crowded with from 100 to 150 people. Waters was organist and played parts of three records on the gramophone. After it was all over we had an excellent lunch at the Residency at which about 40 people were present. Lunch was outside, under tents luckily, as it rained pretty hard. I had the Maharani of Sikkim and the Maharaja's sister, Tobgye's wife, on either side. They are both very nice indeed. The Maharani especially enjoyed the whole wedding, and took such a lot of interest in it. Three of her children and one of Tobgye's were train bearers and looked very well in Tibetan dress. She supplied spare cutlery, silver, crockery, chairs and anything that was wanted, including masses of flowers and the roses for the bouquet. Among other duties I had to perform that of official photographer, which was not too easy in the awful rush.

SUMMARY:
After staying at the Himalayan hotel in Kalimpong and meeting several contacts, the party arranged travel to Gangtok. On 26 April in Gangtok, Tobgye assisted in planning permits and a collecting route: Chumbi Valley near Lingmatang mid-May to early June, then the Ha area north of Ha and west of the Paro watershed, with plans to join Williamson and proceed toward Bumthang for a month’s collecting.

CONTENT:
agate 'pan' boxes,

At Kalimpong stayed at the Himalayan hotel, run by Perry whose wife is a daughter of Macdonald. Met the Odlings, Tobgye, Dr. Graham. Arranged car to Gangtok for Rs 30/- each.

26th Ap. GANGTOK. 6000'. Tobgye proved a great friend. He was apparently chiefly worried about where we intended to collect: thinking it would be in the Ha Paro District which is under the Penlop of Paro who is not too well inclined towards the Maharaja. When he realised that we wanted to go as far East as possible really, say N.E. of Bumthang he was considerably relieved & thought that there should be no great difficulty in getting permission for some time over the two months. Eventually, with his help we have come to this arrangement: to work the Chumbi valley near Lingmatang from mid-May till the beginning of June: then to cross the frontier to the Ha area, keeping north of Ha & West of the Paro watershed. This is Tobgye's land - his son being penlop of Ha. Williamson intends to leave here 25th June, and would join him at Ha at the beginning of July, travel slowly with him to Bumtang. Then Tobgye thinks we will get a month's full collecting N.E. of Bumtang. Some of the trouble was caused by a lama who has been up against H.H. for burning the brushwood in forests to increase grazing, by doing which he was of course taking life by

SUMMARY:
The party halts in Gyantse amid bad weather, attends meals with local contacts, handles repairs and correspondence, and exchanges currency; they hear by wireless that Germany has invaded Austria. They then march to Gabshi, Ralung, and Nangartse with cold, snowy conditions over the Karo La, noting altitudes, distances, and a tidy visit to Williamson’s grave.

CONTENT:
genuine.

8th - 13th March. Halted in Gyantse. Rotten weather all week, with a gale of wind during the day, which raises a dust storm. We have seen a good deal of Tendong, who has been most helpful, getting us little concessions which make all the difference to our comfort ahead. Repairing shoes, kit and dealing with correspondence. On 13th March we heard on our wireless that Germany had invaded Austria - Lhasa !!

14th March. To Gabshi. 16 miles. alt. 13,700' approx. A fine morning, after two bad days in Gyantse when it snowed on all the hills round about. We stopped at Tering's house and had lunch and a good long talk. They are a nice family. Only the old pair, and Jimmie and his wife were there. When we came out, the day was rotten, very cold, clouded over, and remained so all day. Tents are cold but not too bad, as here the wind is not high. We are all very glad to get away from Gyantse, though everyone was very pleasant there. We all dined together on the 8th, and all lunched together at Tendong's on the 10th. Then we had Sunday supper again in the Mess our last evening. Richardson was most helpful and seems a nice man. The Doctor, Morgan, is more independent than any of the others, and we both liked him, as also Colbourne Hudson, the two B.O.'s. We changed Rs 4000/- into the new silver Tibetan rupee, at the rate of Rs 300/- = T.Rs 500/-. That added considerably to the weight of our kit, but it was better than changing to copper, where Rs 200/- would be a mule load. I saw the graveyard one day, just to have a look at Williamson's grave. It is all very tidy and neat.

15th March. To Ralung. 16 miles. alt. 14,300 ft approx. Pretty cold last night, though not windy. This morning was lovely, with very little wind as far as Ralung, by which time it had clouded over. We could see Ningsingkangsa, but only in a very flat light. Nothing of interest seen in bird line. We are living in a 'house' here. It is not clean, but not bad as they go, only a little draughty. Tomorrow with 32 miles to go, we must be up early.

16th March. To Nangartse. 32 miles. Snowed most of the night. Two inches lying, till well over the Karo La. Left at 6.0 am - without shaving - in at 5.0 pm. Kit in at 5.30 pm. In spite of the hard night, it was a lovely day, the sun coming out at 7.0 am and remaining bright all day.

SUMMARY:
On 7th September the party halted at Towa, met and lunched with the local jongpen, and confirmed plans to take the Lalung–Munda–Ling route. On 8th September they marched to Lalung, describing the good path, the Lhobrak valley, and a camp near the monastery, and discussed hopes for the Tashi Lama’s return to Tibet, a matter Williamson is expected to raise at Lhassa.

CONTENT:
getting pay. When a jongpen travels, he pays nothing on
the way, but has free transport wherever he goes.

7th September. Halt at Towa. We lazed in the morning waiting
for the summons to eat with the jongpen. He came himself
about 11:30, and after his visit we went up to the Dzong to
lunch. It was the usual pleasant meal of gyatu with
Chang - very excellent and satisfying. The jongpen is a nice
young man of 32, and was very obliging to us. I think
he would let us go by any route we wanted to. At any
rate the Lalung - Munda - Ling route is decided on.

8th September. To LALUNG 13,250' 8 miles. The path is good and
direct the whole way to Lalung. For the first 3 1/2 miles it
is through the Towa cultivation, then across stony waste land
to m 5 1/2 where the Lhobrak valley narrows to a gorge. At
m 7 the valley again broadens out and cultivation
is met. Lalung monastery lies on the left bank, and the
river is crossed by a bridge opposite the monastery. A very
good camping ground is in a willow garden in front of the
monastery. Water and fuel ample. Yesterday during
lunch we asked the jongpen whether he thought the
Tashi Lama would return to Tibet. This is one of the
things Williamson will certainly have to discuss at
Lhassa. The jongpen was full of hope, as a great
number of Tibetans are. One of the reasons he gave

SUMMARY:
Ludlow and S.D. struggled to collect birds due to swarms of leeches. The party arrived on the 25th, met Price and Waters, heard of Williamson’s engagement and plans to bring his wife to Bhutan, and lunched with Tobgye (Raja S.T. Dorje) in Kalimpong, whose wife is sister to the Maharaja of Sikkim.

CONTENT:
Ludlow and S.D. tried to collect a few birds but badly handicapped by swarms of leeches which infest the jungle near here. He seeing L.D. dare not move off the stony path - if they did they were immediately attacked by myriads of leeches. Someone says that a bird which dropped about a yard behind the path way, they had to make a dash for the bird, retrieve it and flee back to the path to pick off the leeches. After they lost the specimen if they don't find them on trees.

or bird, so long as we do so carefully and near villages or monasteries.

We came here on 25th, to find the Prices here also Waters just arriving. Price is from the China Consular Service and seeing a few places on his way home on leave. Williamson surprised us by saying he was engaged and would soon be married. Moreover his plan is for his wife to come with him to Bhutan. We don't like that, but it can't be helped. I'm not sure that Tobgye will either, as it will mean an increased amount of transport required and all sorts of extra trouble. We lunched one day with Tobgye in Kalimpong. His wife is a most charming woman, the sister of the Maharaja of Sikkim, on whom we are calling today. Tobgye - Raja S.T. Dorje - is the nicest Oriental I have ever met and one can talk to him just like any British official. He and his wife both speak English very well. The drive here was over a very bad

SUMMARY:
The writer recounts time in Paro, including lunches with the Penlop at the dzong, watching lama dances, and enjoying archery practice with Tobgye and Ludlow, while expressing frustration with Williamson’s behavior. On 28 June they leave Paro for Pemithanka via the Bela La, where the Penlop offers tea and rice before farewells.

CONTENT:
monastery, a fine old building with walls about 6ft thick, loopholed for archery. This was once attacked by the Tibetans, who were driven off by the Bhutanese. Returned to Paro at 12.0 and lunched with the penlop, who then gave another show of his dancers. Williamson must always have something done for him, and I think everyone is now getting very tired indeed of him and his requests for more. He has no work to do, that is the chief trouble. His manners to the penlop are perfectly beastly. I would not remain with him a day if I could help it. Tobgye is getting thoroughly sick of him too. In the evening Tobgye took Ludlow and I out for some archery practice, which we all enjoyed very much.

27th June. PARO. Yesterday it rained most of the day. At 11.30 went to the dzong to lunch with Penlop. It is a huge place, and when one gets inside looks most impressive. After lunch watched the lama dances done inside a huge hall. Cleared up by 3.0 pm when we left. Ludlow and I walked up the river and took photos of the dzong from various angles. More practice of archery in the evening. My mouth is now much better, but another tooth is coming out by itself, and now sticks down 1/8 inch, preventing me chewing.

28th June. PEMITHANKA. 10 miles. 8500'. Left Paro at 8.30 and after a short visit to the Penlop in the dzong, rode up to the Bela La, 11650', where the Penlop gave us tea and rice, where we said goodbye. When we were

B. 16. Views in Paro up the river, mostly of Paro Dzong and in dzong and of helmeted soldiers.

SUMMARY:
Notes describe views of Singhi Dzong and the Kuru Chu gorge, photographing types and views at Lala, and local reactions to camp gear and flowers (including delphinium used as a 'louse killer'). The Jongpen has gone to Lhasa with Williamson, affecting transport, while the party camps in a sheltered field and tends seedlings amid wind and impending frost.

CONTENT:
B 27.
View up side valley - Singhi Dzong: from bridge over Kuru Chu looking up: from ridge above looking down gorge.
Types & views at Lala.
Petunias

Their name for the delphinium is "louse killer". I suppose they imagine we carry it about for that purpose. They make it into a paste & put it in their clothes. The box of flowers also causes great amusement. But when we arrive in camp, the greatest attraction is seeing a camp bed & chair put together. Everyone will close round & just stand & gaze at it. The scenery yesterday was fine - the gorge of the Kuru Chu, the little villages we passed through; and the people themselves - all were interesting. The Jongpen here has gone to Lhasa with Williamson, so has his steward, so I don't know how we will fare for transport. His wife acts in his place. The Dzong is a fine building on a rock in the valley, with a gompa below it. Our camp is in a lovely green field, surrounded by trees & out of the strong wind. The seedlings seem to have lasted well so far, but the wind will be a trial to them here. It is so dry & different to what they are used to. I water them twice a day, with that perhaps all will be well. There will soon be frost, then presumably I can let them dry off. Last night we were both pretty ill-tempered for a while. When we reached here in the dark, we found that the man responsible had sent all our kit to the

SUMMARY:
Notes on departure with mule transport, observations of conifers, magnolias and daphnes, and a dispute over extra pony rations. Ludlow indicates the route to Changu, Sikkim; arrival at TSOMGO (10 miles, 12,400') with snow starting at 12:30. Cine film B.1 taken between Kalimpong and near Lagyap La.

CONTENT:
50-60 ft high. A good many are in bloom, but all have been terribly spoilt by the hail. Magnolias & daphnes too are numerous: I think it is mag. campbellii - some of the trees being 70-90 ft high with huge blooms. Collected seven birds but no flowers. The transport is mule & far away the best I've seen: they did the full 10 miles in a little under four hours. We took one riding pony, but I walked. Once the order to load up was given, they were off in half an hour - a jolly good performance on the first morning. Had to pay Rs 6/- for three extra ponies = 1 per 6 baggage ponies for their rations. I'm sure that is not right, but Rai Bahadur Norbu said we should pay: he is probably in with the transport people. Williamson is too weak to tell them they can't have it. It is grand to be off, & to see conifers in the distance again.

Ludlow says "To Changu Sikkim"
6th May. TSOMGO. 10 miles. 12400'. A lovely morning, but clouded

Cine film No.
B.1. taken between Kalimpong and near Lagyap La. All with filter. Snows with f 5.6-11 at 6.30 am.

over by 1200. In at 1230, when snow started falling. Passed in zone of conifers and rhododend