Showing 6 results

SUMMARY:
The diarist reports a night disturbed by insects, rainy weather clearing after an east wind, and ongoing concern for a Tibetan companion with an abscess. They note mixed attitudes from locals, observations on extensive rice cultivation compared to Rungzyung and the Trashiyangsi valley, and remarks on rhododendron flowering and regional snow/frost levels. They remain in the same camp as before.

CONTENT:
In spite of being in tents we were disturbed all night, I by fleas and lice, Sherriff by fleas and mosquitoes. They were in great strength. Left this morning in thick mist and rain, which continued till we had a sudden puff of East wind at 11:00 am. Since then it has gradually cleared up to a fairly good looking evening. The Tibetan progresses, but his abscess won't come to a head. Dorong has been a genuine sympathiser, among the Bhutanese and Mohammedans who merely tolerate him because of us. Now the others are being more helpful, even Pinbo, who hates all Tibetans very heartily. This is, I think, the best cultivated valley we have seen. The rice here is said not to be so good as at Rungzyung or in the Trashiyangsi valley, but it is certainly grown very extensively. We guessed the yield here as about 6 maunds to the acre. Barring a few flowering shrubs there are few flowers to be seen here. Kingdon Ward, I believe, mentioned that when he came down the Nyam Jang Chu in winter, he found rhododendrons in flower. It is possible that at lower altitude places further south I may also see some. There is little or no frost at Trashiyangsi (c. 6,000') and the usual snow line is above Sana in winter (c. 10,000'). We stay here in the same camp as before, a magnificent

SUMMARY:
The party halts at Sana amid heavy rain that floods the tent; a Tibetan patient improves as more pus and cores are expelled. Their taphon begs for trousers and is promised pyjamas, and the next day they march to Trashiyangsi Dzong before rain sets in, with Danong and Kurtip returning.

CONTENT:
walk a little and in much less pain. There is still a lot of pus and two cores came out today. With the bright sun leeches have vanished as quickly as they come with the rain. Evening again heavy rain. I'm afraid I shall get no chance of a view from the Donger La, as tomorrow is our last day. I shan't be sorry to leave this place; it has not been very exciting.

8th October. Halted Sana. Very heavy rain last night flooded my tent. A good sunny morning. The Tibetan is very much better, though a lot of pus still comes out, and another core was squeezed out this morning. We sent him off at 1.0pm to get down to the next hut, a mile or two down the hill. Our excellent 'taphon' has just been prostrating himself in front of our tent. When cursed by Ludlow, he came to me. Eventually we found that what he was begging for was a pair of pants. These aren't generally worn in Bhutan, but he seems to think he has risen to them now. I have promised him my pyjamas in two days time, but they won't last him long.

Quercus griffithii 1053
Pleione praecox 1056
9th Oct. TO TRASHIYANGSI DZONG. 11 miles Ht. 5883' (BP. 20.17) Temp 68° A beautiful day until about 2.30 when the rain came on. Danong and Kurtip returned.

SUMMARY:
The diarist reports a serious epidemic to the south in Shinga Dzong, thought by Puibo to be influenza though possibly typhoid. While halted at Sana, Ludlow treated a Tibetan man's abscess and ongoing dressings improved his condition amid rainy weather and delays awaiting mail.

CONTENT:
101

to be a serious outbreak of some epidemic to
the south in Shinga Dzong. Two hundred or
more are said to have died already. Puibo
says it is influenza, though typhoid is more
likely.

6th October. Halted Sana. Fair morning, rain the rest
of the day. Yesterday Ludlow cut the Tibetan's
abscess with a razor blade. Pus just poured out
and the man was obviously greatly relieved. We
dress it four times a day, and still any amount
of stuff pours out. The hand is a little less
swollen, but still big and very painful. I wonder
if he will be able to walk down with us in
two days' time. We cannot leave him here, or
the whole thing will just start off again. I
wish the next mail would arrive. With all this
rain, one feels the need of reading matter. It is
little or no use going out in misty dull weather,
as birds are not on the move then. We should
know definitely next mail whether all our mails
have been delivered or not.

7th Oct. Halted Sana. The first good day since we
have been here. Cloudy, but sun bright in the
valleys. The Tibetan is much better, able to

Phylloscopus affinis wallichiana 10000

SUMMARY:
Three halt days at Sana with rain, mist, and leeches are described. Ludlow shot a Kalij pheasant; later they saw a tragopan but had no food birds, and meat supplies fluctuated with two hens, two pheasants, and a sheep. A sick Tibetan companion with an abscess was treated with hot compresses, some pus discharged, and they planned to cut it with a razor.

CONTENT:
100

3rd October. Halt Sana. A poor day, rain or mist most of the day, therefore leeches rather in evidence. Found nothing new. Ludlow shot a very fine cock Kalij pheasant. The Tibetan is no better today: in fact the poison has gone down to his right arm and hand, and left leg too it seems. We have put on four large hot compresses today, but there is still no sign of the abscess coming to a head. A Mohammedan is a rotten man when it comes to helping a fellow creature. Our people get all food and ample practically free. They said of course they would feed him. When we looked to see what he was getting, it was dry rice alone. Ma, the sheep has been found and is now no more. The Tibetan will get a piece of him, or her. Meat comes in rushes. We had none for some time; now we have two hens, two pheasant and a sheep.

4th Oct. Halted Sana. Reasonably fine, but cloudy. No food birds: saw a tragopan.

5th Oct. Halted Sana. Rain off and on all day. Mist very low. The Tibetan is rather better today, and some pus came out of the abscess this morning. We intend to cut it this evening, with a razor blade. There seems

SUMMARY:
Kuship and Damong rejoined the party; Damong reported seed collections from the Mela and brought two gentians (Nos. 1001, 1002). The diarist treated a wounded Tibetan while moving him toward Sana hut, stayed in the Dzong, paid coolies, and noted rain overnight and fleas despite the building being relatively new.

CONTENT:
103

both met us on the way, both looking very fit. Kuship has had no fever. Damong got a good number of seeds at the Mela, and had awful weather all the time he was away. He says he sent a man up to Chukas for the seed bagged there. We stay in the Dzong - a new part of it - which saves a bit for the next march. Coolies came up in numbers this morning. When they took us up, I gave 3 tankhas and 1 extra between each two. This they thought was too good, and boys ran away from their houses, where they should be watching the makki to come up and earn as much again. The Tibetan went down yesterday evening to Sana hut and I visited him there and dressed his wound. He went on early this morning and we dressed him again half way. He walked what he could - short stretches of 200 yards here and there, and was carried the rest, about 10 miles I suppose. He progresses well. Damong brought down two good gentians in flower - Nos. 1001 and 1002 - which I photographed here.

(Gentiana amoena 1001 "silvostriata" 1002)

10th October. Halted Trashiyangsi. Rained all night, cleared up by 8.0 and was fine all day. We both spent a pretty miserable night last night. Although pretty new, this part of the Dzong has been occupied long enough for it to be well stocked with fleas. I have never

SUMMARY:
Notes from Shali in the Trashiyangsi Valley describe a route through oak jungle, crossing the Bumthang Chu at mile 4 and the Blarkang Chu at mile 7, with the path 1500–2000 ft above the Trashiyangsi Chu and passing small patches of cultivation. Weather was breezy with no rain and many flowers and orchids were observed. Ahmad Sheikh was scalded by an upset kettle, while the Tibetan companion is improving and managed to ride and walk today.

CONTENT:
Trashiyangsi Valley
Shali Aug 11
Coelogyne ovalis 1048
Cyperorchis longifolia 1051

climbs and descends a lot. Mostly it lies through open oak jungle. Where reentrants are crossed the jungle is dense. At m 4 the BUMTHANG CHU is crossed. This is a big valley coming in from the East. Another smaller valley, the BLARKANG CHU, is crossed at m 7. Most of the way from m 4 or so on the path is from 1500 to 2000 ft above the Trashiyangsi Chu. Small patches of cultivation are passed here and there, and the last 3 miles is mostly through cultivation, where there are a few houses.

A day with no rain at all, almost our first. There is a good breeze always up the valley, so although hot, it was never unpleasant. We found a remarkable number of flowers, orchids and some queer things I do not know at all. It is beautifully cool here in the evening, with a good breeze. Our medicines are having a hard time this year, whereas last year we used none. Ahmad Sheikh yesterday upset a kettle full of water and burnt both arms, one badly, and his face a little. It looks as if he would have a bad time with the wound on his right arm. The Tibetan is very much better now. He rode half way and walked the rest today, and there is little pus coming from the cut this evening. A number of