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LSH/1/1/6/1/117 · Part · 1933-07-27
Part of The Ludlow & Sherriff Collection

SUMMARY:
The party halted at Tse, planned routes with Ludlow going north toward the plateau and then to Trongsa, while Taylor and the diarist would work NW of Tsela and cross the Nyang Chu to reach Trongsa by a new route. They found delayed mail at Tsela Dz, traveled by coracle to Tsela Dzong, and then on to Puchu (Nyang Chu); there was a dispute with Tendong in Gyantse over dak payments, cordial visits with the Dzongpon and his wife, and Sherriff visited to hear the wireless, after which Ludlow went on ahead while transport was arranged.

CONTENT:
58

1st - 6th August. Halt. Tse.
It was very nice all being together again. The weather was fine nearly all the time at Tse. While there we planned for the future, that Ludlow would go off to the North to the edge of the plateau then to Trongsa by himself. Taylor and I would work the hills NW of Tsela and then go across the Nyang Chu and also to Trongsa by a new route. There was no sign of any mail at Tse, but we found that it had been lying in Tsela Dz for 15 days or more.

7th August. Tsela Dzong.

10th August. Puchu (Nyang Chu).
Plans for next month.
Tendong in Gyantse has let us down badly, having taken Rs 240 for payment of the dak wala, but he has given him hardly anything and has said he cannot send any more. We came over in many journeys of three coracles to Tsela Dz on 7th and had quite a pleasant two days there. The Dzongpon is a good man and very helpful. He came and lunched with us, and we lunched with him and his wife next day. Then Sherriff came down to listen to the wireless last night. We all came on together today as far as this, then Ludlow went on further. We have transport to arrange here for 7 days so had to stop. There is a monastery here and outside are two of the huge big wooden figures, one male and female, representing

LSH/1/1/6/1/11 · Part · 1933-03-02
Part of The Ludlow & Sherriff Collection

SUMMARY:
The diarist records a cable from Taylor about plans to arrive in Calcutta on April 2, then details travel from Kala to Gyantse with strong winds and dust storms, wildlife sightings and shooting, and use of the wireless. Mail reports from Wright Smith on the 1937 primulas, and upon reaching Gyantse they call on Richardson, Dr Morgan, Colbourne, Hudson, and receive a friendly visit from Tendong.

CONTENT:
NB read a cable from Taylor "Passed Doctor. Absence extended December. Arrive Calcutta April 2nd."
That is one thing now settled. Ludlow went out at the hot springs with his gun, and got 1 teal, 1 pintail and 1 mallard. I sent Punso out here with the .22 rifle and he hit 3 geese but got none. Very cold in the evening, clouded in the North.

3rd March. To Kala. 12 miles. A perfectly fine day. Even when we left at 7:30 the wind was very strong, and we finished in a filthy dust storm. Rham tso frozen all over this end, but a good many duck and geese seen. The river connecting the Rham tso and the Kala tso was quite dry, a most unusual thing. By 1:00 pm clouded all over. We had the wireless out last night, and it was as good as could be wished for.

4th March. To Samoda. 14 miles. Fine, with no wind while we crossed the Kala plain. Even in the evening there was little, a great relief after yesterday. We saw a big herd of kiang on the plain and got a telephoto cine of them. 18 gazelle were too nervous. Above Samoda at the springs were some duck, and one obliging solitary snipe. Ludlow and I had 3 shots at it with the catapult, then Tsompen got it on his second shot.

5th March. To Khangma. 14 miles. A beastly day, wind very strong, with dust storm. Tsompen shot a merganser, Ludlow missed 8 mallard with dust shot .410 and then got 3 partridges with one shot. Jill (dog) rather happier today and her feet not so sore. David has been feeling the height and wind, and having bad headaches, but he seems alright today and much happier.

6th March. Saugong. 14 miles. Fine day, cleared up late at night. Mail came in about 8:00 pm. Wright Smith has now settled all points about my 1937 primulas, with the possible exception of 3301 which he thinks is P. chasmophila. Seeds have germinated, and I expect he will wait till they flower. Saw more duck and partridge on the way and shot 1 partridge, when five burhel got up.

7th March. Gyantse. 15 miles. A very strong wind all day, which caused a dust storm all over the Gyantse plain. Arrived at 12 noon. Called on Richardson, Morgan the doctor (16 B.T.A.) and the two B.O.'s (O.C. 16th Detachment) Colbourne and Hudson. Tendong, now Jongpen of Gyantse, one of Ludlow's old pupils came to call on us, and was most friendly. He is very dirty to look at, but a good soul, and very...

LSH/1/1/6/1/13 · Part · 1938-03-08 - 1938-03-16
Part of The Ludlow & Sherriff Collection

SUMMARY:
The party halts in Gyantse amid bad weather, attends meals with local contacts, handles repairs and correspondence, and exchanges currency; they hear by wireless that Germany has invaded Austria. They then march to Gabshi, Ralung, and Nangartse with cold, snowy conditions over the Karo La, noting altitudes, distances, and a tidy visit to Williamson’s grave.

CONTENT:
genuine.

8th - 13th March. Halted in Gyantse. Rotten weather all week, with a gale of wind during the day, which raises a dust storm. We have seen a good deal of Tendong, who has been most helpful, getting us little concessions which make all the difference to our comfort ahead. Repairing shoes, kit and dealing with correspondence. On 13th March we heard on our wireless that Germany had invaded Austria - Lhasa !!

14th March. To Gabshi. 16 miles. alt. 13,700' approx. A fine morning, after two bad days in Gyantse when it snowed on all the hills round about. We stopped at Tering's house and had lunch and a good long talk. They are a nice family. Only the old pair, and Jimmie and his wife were there. When we came out, the day was rotten, very cold, clouded over, and remained so all day. Tents are cold but not too bad, as here the wind is not high. We are all very glad to get away from Gyantse, though everyone was very pleasant there. We all dined together on the 8th, and all lunched together at Tendong's on the 10th. Then we had Sunday supper again in the Mess our last evening. Richardson was most helpful and seems a nice man. The Doctor, Morgan, is more independent than any of the others, and we both liked him, as also Colbourne Hudson, the two B.O.'s. We changed Rs 4000/- into the new silver Tibetan rupee, at the rate of Rs 300/- = T.Rs 500/-. That added considerably to the weight of our kit, but it was better than changing to copper, where Rs 200/- would be a mule load. I saw the graveyard one day, just to have a look at Williamson's grave. It is all very tidy and neat.

15th March. To Ralung. 16 miles. alt. 14,300 ft approx. Pretty cold last night, though not windy. This morning was lovely, with very little wind as far as Ralung, by which time it had clouded over. We could see Ningsingkangsa, but only in a very flat light. Nothing of interest seen in bird line. We are living in a 'house' here. It is not clean, but not bad as they go, only a little draughty. Tomorrow with 32 miles to go, we must be up early.

16th March. To Nangartse. 32 miles. Snowed most of the night. Two inches lying, till well over the Karo La. Left at 6.0 am - without shaving - in at 5.0 pm. Kit in at 5.30 pm. In spite of the hard night, it was a lovely day, the sun coming out at 7.0 am and remaining bright all day.