Showing 41 results

SUMMARY:
Mail from Sarshang reports mixed results with new Meconopsis seed: Hay and Sandeman failed while Anderson succeeded; Taylor comments on germination methods. The diarist moves from Camp Kangchukka on the Pele La range with detailed route notes, persistent rain, and remarks on Primula no. 3249 possibly being P. stirtoniana. Camps, meadows, and forest routes are described en route toward Rukubzhi and Longte Chu.

CONTENT:
11th June. Camp Kangchukka, on Pele La range. 10 miles. Ht. approx 12000' (To 12000 ft.)

Another mail came in yesterday in only 10 days from Sarshang. Not very good news about the new Meconopsis seed. Hay, Sandeman & Edinburgh have all failed with it, but Anderson & another man have some up. Taylor says they were too kind to the seed, & tried bottom heat. However other seeds are reported at nearly 100% germination. Rained last night, & fine this morning till 10, then rain all day. The only interesting thing seen was Primula no. 3249, which I have been taking for P. tenuiloba. But now I see its size, it cannot be that. This is a fine Primula, with big leaves - perhaps Stirtoniana, which I do not know well. Climbed up to E. on to ridge, then along ridge to South till m 2. Then down past an open glade through the forest below the ridge. At m 4 again along a ridge which is followed to m 6 where there is a large open grassy glade. From here up to the ridge again. At m 8 turn to the R. & down to a lush open meadow. Then descent through forest to a big open meadow & some temporary houses at m 10. A good camp.

12th June. Rukubzhi (To Longte Chu) 6 miles. Approx 9000'. Rained all last night, &

SUMMARY:
Notes 1938 expedition plans for the Yilung Chu–Gyala area and records February travel from Mansehra via Rawalpindi to Calcutta and Kalimpong, dealing with delayed kit and shipping. Mentions visits with the Potters and Bakewells, calling Taylor and Mary, staying with Tobgye, a trip to Gangtok to see Gould, and preparations to proceed to Pedong.

CONTENT:
In 1936 L.D. collected in the upper reaches of the Subansiri. In 1938 they decided to collect in the drainage basin for the north of Molo on the Yilung Chu down to Gyala at the entrance to the gorge. (journey to last for 10 months). East of the area covered in 1936 — between Long. 94° and the bend of the Tsangpo — is contained in the Tsela District of Kongbo Takpo.

1938.

Feb. 8th. Mansehra The last two days have been cold with a good deal of snow at Uri. So we decided to leave today about 11:30, and go as far as possible. Actually the road was not really bad, and there was no snow beyond Uri. Primula inayatii was in flower at the cliff beyond Uri. At Domel we heard the road between Domel and Kohala was shut, so we went by the Abbottabad road and reached Mansehra very easily by 5:45 pm. Bungalow very clean and nice.

Feb. 9th. Rawalpindi. Left at 8:30, and got in in good style just after 11:00. The kit servants reached Pindi by mail lorry at 3:20 pm. Spent most of the day with the Potters and Bakewells.

Feb. 12th. Calcutta Left Pindi by the Frontier Mail on 10th at 2:10 pm and reached here at 8:00 am today. The first blow was to find that our kit had not arrived on our train. We then went to Cox and Kings and heard that the B.M. boxes had not been taken off the 'Domala' and that all the seven cases of whisky and rum had not been sent on from Bombay. Then we found the Bank all shut, and a good many shops too. In the evening we went to Mrs. Graham's house and telephoned to Taylor and Mary — six minutes to each, which meant a bill of Rs 160/-.

Feb. 13th. Kalimpong. Arrived here this morning by 10:30. It was nice, as always, to see Tobgye again, and we are staying in their house with them.

Feb. 24th. to Pedong. 10 miles We can now be said to have started. While with Tobgye we went to Gangtok, spent two nights with Gould. It was in a way rather a waste of time, as Gould is not a bit fit, and could not see us for very long. After that all our time was spent in packing and checking kit, leaving stuff for Taylor and making arrangements for his following us on. Tobgye had sent on some of our kit, on two different

SUMMARY:
Rained overnight but the party traveled about 7 miles to Öla, facing major disputes with transport coolies allegedly stirred up by the Noro Gyumpu's brother; the diarist struck a man who threatened a woman with a knife. Kesang, having taken mail to Kyindong Dzong where the Dzongpen refused to forward it, was sent back to have it sent on to Tsari Chunchar, leaving Taylor unlikely to receive it until his return.

CONTENT:
troubles
77

20th October. ÖLA. 7 miles. App. 13000'. Rained all night & a good deal early this morning, but was fine for us nearly all the way here, up till evening. All promises did not amount to much, & by sending Kucho off to all huts, the transport started in about 8:00 am. Then there was the most awful row, chiefly due to the Noro Gyumpu's brother, who seems to have a good deal of power here, & is an absolute "soor." Without him all would have been well, but he was making the coolies dissatisfied & quarrelsome. The loads were not off till 10:00 am & before that I had hit a man very hard across the face for trying to pinch a lighter box off a woman. He was a beastly nuisance & had a foul temper, threatening the woman with his knife, so I'm not at all sorry for hitting him. Most things went wrong today, starting with the non-appearance of the transport. Just as we reached the Pa La route, Kesang appeared. He had taken the mail to Kyindong Dzong, where the Dzongpen refused to allow it to go on, saying I would be coming there soon, & would pick it up. I sent Kesang back, & asked for the mail to be sent on at once to Tsari Chunchar, which Kesang thinks he can manage. Poor Taylor will not now get the mail till he is home, or

SUMMARY:
Describes a frosty halt day, continued collection of Gentiana (lacunulata), and praise for the seed collector Tupden. Notes comparisons of the Dhu Chu area with the Bumthang Chu, reports a letter from HH about upcoming arrivals (Hicks, MK, Tasho Drunyer), tallies seed and plant collections, and mentions confirmations by Ludlow and Taylor regarding Mec. Sherriffii.

CONTENT:
with Mec. paniculata, simplicifolia & horridula, all of which are in cultivation at home. Tupden is one of the best seed collectors there could be. He takes great pains & always goes on till called away. I wished to have had him from the beginning. Now I know him, I find him very good indeed. He is a Khampa, probably a runaway murderer or something like that, from Markham. The area of the Dhu Chu is something like shown opposite.

4th October Halt. Another lovely day, & very cold hard frost last night. The tents each night now are covered with frost inside & out, & this makes them very heavy. Nothing special happened today. I went out to look for more of yesterday's Gentiana (lacunulata) 19789, & after a while we found a lot of it. It reminds me of G. amplicrata which we first found at Zimsati near Sangacholing in Takpo. I don't think it is G. depressa, & certainly isn't G. amoena. The more I see of this area, the better it looks. It holds much more than the Bumthang Chu valley, although this is a tributary of the Bumthang Chu. It must be more than just not so many yaks here, although there is no doubt that many yaks, & sheep too, in a valley, make a very great difference to the flora. A letter came in from HH to say Tasho Drunyer will arrive on 6th. So with Hicks on 5th, MK on 6th & us on 7th, there will be some activity in Bumthang this week. The main seed collection is now over, & I have about 130 gatherings of seed now, besides the 40-50 taken before & some 25 rooted plants & a number of bulbs & tubers & corms & so on. Ludlow tells me he has 5 lbs. of seed of Mec. Sherriffii! That shows how common it is when it does occur. Taylor has confirmed that it is Mec. Sherriffii, but a very fine form of it.

SUMMARY:
Snow blocks progress near Bimbi La and limits collecting; the party arrives to deep cold and finds a large, roughly handled mail, with Kesang bringing it in by sunrise. Despite brief clear spells at Chikchar and Chosam, persistent snowfall yields only a few seeds and some Primula winteri roots from Senjuti, and pony transport is arranged toward Zimsati. The writer notes inability to send anything to Taylor or Ludlow.

CONTENT:
80a

gone to the Bimbi La, even had they done badly there — too much snow. Came here at 3:00 pm
very cold, the place covered with snow. No hope of getting anything up the valley, but
again Ludlow mentions having got things pretty well here. At last found the mail
here. Kesang had done well, came on quickly, arriving yesterday by sunrise. A
huge mail of two full bags. One was soaking wet, and had been very roughly treated.
What a pity I cannot get anything to Taylor or Ludlow, but it is no use sending
it on again.

Chikchar
26th Oct. Halt. Fine for an hour after sunrise, but we had 3 inches of snow here last night. Snowed
Gen. sino-ornata 6640. Gent. sikkimensis 6641. Gentianella stellarifolia 6642.
the rest of the day, very cold indeed. Got a few seeds, but could find little in the snow.

27th October. Chosam. Fine for an hour after sunrise, but snowed all night and day today. Very
cold. I cannot hope for seeds in this weather. We got nothing today, but took a few roots
P. sibirica
of Primula winteri from Senjuti. Pony transport promised from here for tomorrow, and should get
to Zimsati, where I hope we will see the sun again. I have had enough of this constant
snow

SUMMARY:
Entries for 18–22 August describe halts at Chomo Dzong and Kyabden, poor weather, and a short march crossing the Nyang Chu in four coracles. Taylor became seriously ill at Kyabden (suspected appendicitis or gastric ulcer), prompting messages to Lhasa for help and to call Ludlow; he later improved.

CONTENT:
again very slow indeed. Left at 6.30 am, last coolies in at 6.00 pm. Again very little seen. Primula latisecta common a few miles up the valley from here. Seed not yet ripe. A large monastery here, & considerable cultivation. Crops just about to be harvested, some barley already cut & in.

18th August. Halt. Chomo Dzong. Wet a good deal of the day.

19th August. Kyabden. 5 miles. Fine with showers. We crossed the Nyang Chu opposite Chomo Dzong in four kowas, the stream is in two channels very swift. Path up N bank good & easy, though swampy in places. No villages passed till camp reached.

20th August. Halt. Kyabden. Taylor has been very ill here, with some unknown complaint. So much so that I sent off to Lhasa for help if possible, also to call Ludlow. It appeared to be appendicitis, with awful pains, nausea, vomiting & a high rate of pulse.

21st August. Halt. Kyabden.

22nd August. Halt. Kyabden. This went on till yesterday evening, when after vomiting, he said he was all right, & that the pains had gone. Shortly before this the pain seemed to have localized to the left of the navel. What it has been I don't know, though I should think a gastric ulcer is possible. He is ever so much better today, & I have sent off to

SUMMARY:
Travel from Paka toward Lilung over several days in rainy weather, with washed-out bridges requiring boat crossings. The diarist meets Ludlow and Taylor at Tse, notes delays to the mail, and reports grim European news of war. Local interactions include the Tsongpen, Pinbo bearing news, a long dinner with a Paka man, and arrangements via a lady at Miling for money to be taken to Sanga Choling.

CONTENT:
24th September Paka. A beautiful sunny day. Found the bridge at Kongshing washed away, so had to come down by hamdo from here, where the ford is fairly easy. Tsongpen also arrived, but has not done very well on the whole, getting fewer seeds than I expected. We did not get the new P. dryadifolia: it was not nearly ripe. In the evening Pinbo arrived, with news from Ludlow from Tse, where they arrived today. Taylor very fit. European news very bad indeed, war seems certain according to Ludlow. I am going down early in the morning to spend a few hours there, and hear the latest. Ludlow is earlier than expected, but I suppose will move rather slower than he originally thought he would. There are about 40 lopas here, come over the Lokung leka. Leka seems to be the lopa word for la, but is generally used in hamdo and Paka for the Lokung and Kucha las. No news of the mail, so I'm afraid I will miss it now, and will not get my letters till Sanga Choling.
S.T.H. and T while at Tse for lunch.
25th. S. leaves after lunch.

25th Sept. Halt. Rode down to Tse, getting there at 6:30 am and leaving at 2:30 pm. Ludlow and Taylor both very fit: Taylor seems really alright this time, but he is still going carefully. It was nice seeing them for a last few words before we go off separately till India. No news of the mail, and have given up hope now till Sanga Choling at any rate. Had an awful dinner with the Paka man lasting hours. A good deal of rain, with bright intervals.

26th Sept. Nagu Bridge. We did not get off till 8:15 this morning. Rain at night, and some showers today. Cloudy. A long march, getting in at 5:00 pm. The bridge is not repaired and we have to go over in a kowa I believe.

27th September. Sunbitenka. Rain at night, and rain nearly all day - very heavy in the evening. It took us a good while to be loaded up this side of the Nyü River, after crossing in a kowa, and we were only off at 8:15, arriving in at 3:00 pm. I went to see the lady at Miling, but missed her. Kucha later saw her, as she was very sorry to have missed me, as she wanted money taken to Sanga Choling, and has asked me to order for her 2 "ordinary" and 2 "1st class" hats from her sister.

28th September - Lilung. Fine till the afternoon, when there was a very heavy thunderstorm, with snow or hail on the hills; cleared up later. A very short march: in at 10:00 am. Still no sign of the mail, and

SUMMARY:
The writer records local repercussions for aiding the Political Officer and objections to an interpreter at Tawang, then details marches from Haat to Jiri Chu, Demri Chu, Chungkar, and Satsalor. They assist the Dzongpen with photography, collect Lil. wallichianum bulbs, and note Ludlow’s kindness and medical aid to injured locals, with supplies sent and plans to leave Dewangiri on the 27th.

CONTENT:
Also that those Tibetans who hired the P.O. ponies were punished for having done so when he had gone. The same happened to anyone who helped the P.O., so that locals are in rather a fix.
About the interpreter at Tawang, whom some of his own people had objected to. They did not like him, and thought his interpretation bad.

20th November. Haat. Fine. I wish I had gone on today, as I could easily have done so. A second bearer is more polite. Dzongpen wants to take photographs. He took 12 and developed them, but none were even recognisable. So I had to go with him and take another 12 today. But no more developing - these will go to Kalimpong.

21st November. To Jiri Chu. Fine. I was glad to get away from Purtogong. The Dzongpen was very kind indeed to us all there, but there was nothing to do but talk to him all day, which became very tiring. Coolies came direct, with no change. We have almost seen the last of the Main Range now: it was very clear today. From beyond Chunyhar one gets a last glimpse. Dundum flies not nearly so bad this year as in 1836. Collected again a few Lil. Wallichianum bulbs.

22nd November. To Demri Chu. Fine. If I had remembered how short a march this was, I would have arranged coolies to go on to Chunyhar. These two days are absurdly short, there is little of interest to be found on these lost dry hillsides. Got a few more bulbs of Lil. Wallichianum, now have about 40-50.

23rd November. To Chungkar. Fine, very clear sky. Another absurdly short march. Ludlow sent a note back here to say we leave Dewangiri on 27th. He also sent three bottles of beer and a small tin of chocolates, which was very thoughtful of him. Jill put up a lot of 'leku' today and also a dozen or more partridge. She uses her nose now very well indeed, has a lot of fun hunting on the hillside. There is a man here with his leg half cut off by a fall onto a rock. Ludlow was looking after him and tried to get him to consent to come to Kalimpong. But we showed no enthusiasm, although his leg will probably be useless in future unless he goes.

24th November. Satsalor. Fine. Taylor and Tenduk must have searched the P. Sherrifae cliffs pretty well, as I could hardly find a capsule. There is a man at Chungkar with a terrible gash in his knee, which is septic. Ludlow treated him for all the time he was there, and I dressed him twice. We both tried our best to get him to come to Kalimpong, but with no success. He merely said he could not go. He had the lamas in, they told him...

SUMMARY:
Travel from Tongsa to Tashiling and Chendebi in misty, unsettled weather; brief collecting of Thalictrum and generally poor seed. Met the Dzongpon of Tongsa, received mail from Bumthang with letters from Betty and Taylor, and noted Maté’s arrival with a letter from Tongue and responsibility for the subsidy. Mentions Ludlow’s plant not ripe and that Pasang may have taken a hanging creeper.

CONTENT:
14th October. Tongsa. Rainy night & morning, very little sun today, but just no rain. Very unsettled yet. Left 6.30 arr 11.30. Met here the jovial Dzongpon of Tongsa, all arrangements excellent. We had nothing special to collect today, only took some more Thalictrum 19544. Yesterday Maté arrived in camp somewhat surprisingly, with a letter from Tongue. He was in charge of this year's subsidy, which means I suppose he was responsible for carrying a couple of lakhs of rupees. I would like now to see a few really nice clear days for a change. We used to say the 18 Oct was the first really good day, but that was further east. It looks as if it might be the same here this year.

15th Oct. Tashiling. Still thick mist, except for 2 very hot hours in the morning, when the sun was out. We got rather poor seed this morning. Ludlow's tree or shrub was not at all ripe, & we missed the hanging creeper with scarlet flowers. Perhaps Pasang has taken that. Early this morning a mail came back from Bumthang for us, with some of Betty's letters of 13-15 September & one from Taylor.

16th Oct. Chendebi. Rain at night & thick mist, once left in Tashiling this morning. Cleared up by 1.0 pm & may now remain fine I think. No excitement. We got quite good

SUMMARY:
The writer reports finding a new lily and abundant Notholirion macrophyllum, and receives mail from Kalimpong with news that Branklyn is for sale and may be acquired. A letter from Taylor confirms P. umbratilis roots arrived safely and began to show growth after soaking. On 23rd July they marched to Dhur, noting an uninteresting, damp route where two rivers join.

CONTENT:
certainly all has passed their flower, the many plants with no flower, had it not been for these coincidences. It is a new lily: it must be, isolated like that in Cent. Bhutan. It is not a startling flower, rather tubular 2 1/2" long, a brownish red, one or in one case only, 2-flowered. A new lily is what we have wanted all these years, now we have it. Lower down Rhododendron camelliiflorum was common. R. keysii v. common. Buddleja colvilei was all over the place - a magnificent shrub. Then near camp we came across masses of Notholirion macrophyllum. I have never seen so much anywhere. To add to my excitement, a large mail came in from Kalimpong, & in it, the very exciting news that Branklyn is for sale, & we are likely to get it. That just capped the day for us. I have taken bulbs of the lily to send home. A letter from Taylor says that the dried roots of P. umbratilis have arrived safely. He gave one to be microscopically examined & he soaked one for a night - to find it already showing green next morning. Altogether a very fine day to remember. The valley we came down is one which would well repay a thorough search. I wish I had chosen it instead of the Bumthang Chu, but one can't tell from the mouth of the valley what it will be like.

23rd July. DHUR, about 4 miles. Mostly fine, but very damp, & rain after 2.0pm. An uninteresting march down a filthy path. We were right out of the interesting zone today. There are some flowers, but they are low altitude ones & common. Here two rivers join, the Dhur and another from the N-West, almost equal size. That valley might also prove a good one to work. The more I see now of the country, the more I wish I had come up this way instead of waiting.