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SUMMARY:
At a high camp around 10,000 ft with scarce water, the writer describes leeches, midges, and limited washing, expecting no water at the next camp. Locals share stories of the Black Mountain’s golden, silver, and emerald lakes and rock salt, recalling an old man punished by HH for musk deer trapping and a mad lama who returned with rock salt three years ago.

CONTENT:
to stick to the ridge. Even then, one would expect some water, but there is none. A few leeches today; midges awful in last camp, but we are almost too high for them here. We must now be at 10,000 ft. The locals have many stories about the Black Mountain. There is one old man with me who used to come up here 20 years ago to shoot or trap musk deer. When HH heard of it he had him beaten, so he has not been here since. There are said to be three kinds of lakes near the top - one golden, one silver and one emerald. They say also that rock salt is found on the mountain, but that the Tibetans prayed the Bhutanese not to use it, as they would have nothing to trade if they did. So now it is not used. This is hearsay, but 3 years ago a mad lama went up the Black Mountain and came back with a big piece of rock salt. So there must be something in the story. They say we will not have any water even in tomorrow's camp. I have not shaved or washed these last two days, but have at least had two small cups of tea at breakfast and at tea time. This camp must have been the scene of a terrific storm,

SUMMARY:
Diary notes describe failed hopes of reaching Tsari due to snow on the Tsari La, bulb collection of Lilium wardii near Lilung, and negotiations with local officials for transport. The writer arranges men and yaks to cross near Singo Samba, dispatches Tsongpon with coolies, reorganizes supplies, and collects Primula and Cyananthus seed while preparing to move toward the Lo La and Langong.

CONTENT:
there does not now seem any hope of getting in, but I wonder if even Ludlow will see it before he has gone too far. The gyampon here tells me that it will be impossible to get round Tsari Sama — too much snow on the Tsari La.

29th September. Camp 2 miles above bridge on Molo road. A beautiful day till 3:00 pm. Then thunder and very heavy rain. I could find no one who knew of a lily near Lilung, but eventually an old man said he did, and came on this morning to show us. We needed no showing, as there are plenty, when once seen. I took about 50 bulbs and have ordered another 50 to be collected for Taylor. So that it should be introduced all right. No. 6541. Little else seen on the way up.
Lilium wardii 6541.
Abies strigillosa 6539.
Lactuca macrorhiza 6540.

30th September. Molo. Fine all day. Beautiful evening. Back to Molo for the fourth time, and I hope the last. Kusho optimistically took everything for granted when he was told transport would be supplied. But it will not be as easy as all that. I had a long argument with the gyampon this afternoon, and he has supplied three men for Tsongpon to go tomorrow. He should reach the Lo La on return on the 8th. Molo cannot supply men for me, but we have arranged for 6 men and 4 yaks, the latter to swim the river at Singo Samba, while we cross by the bridge. It all seems a little doubtful yet, especially as Kusho avoided telling them I was going to Tsari Sama. If they don't know that before starting, they will never agree to go when we get to Trashigong. Gentiana veitchiorum very common all over the open meadows and hills here. Got a little Primula seed, and some Aquilegia and Primula jaffrayana.
Tsangpo La Lo La

1st October. Molo. A perfect day. Hard frost last night. Tsongpon got off with three coolies in good time this morning. The coolies were remarkably early and quite cheerful about going. I spent the whole day in rearranging all my kit, flower stores and so on, and am now ready to go on to the Lo La and Langong, victualled for 15 days.

2nd October. Molo. Another perfect day. Went down the river bank and got a good deal of Primula seed. Salvia hians has thrown all its seed. One Cyananthus seed also collected, but nothing else. I do hope this weather will hold for a few weeks now. It would make all the difference.
Cyananthus sherriffii 6545