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LSH/1/1/8/1/101 · Part · 1947-05-06
Part of The Ludlow & Sherriff Collection

SUMMARY:
At Laba on the north side of Potrang La, the diarist reports a broken cine camera and scarce flowering, lamenting missed photographic plans between Tsona and Dirang Dzong. The next day they cross Potrang La to Lhaguari amid a blizzard and, at the request of the Jetsun Kusho, move from a planned campsite at the Lingka to quarters at the Gompa, also noting bird observations along the route.

CONTENT:
7th May. Laba on North side of Potrang La. 15,000'. Some rain last night. Bright with clouds most of today, with storms round about, but none here so far.

A minor tragedy happened yesterday, when the cine camera went bust - the mainspring I think. I was sorry enough to have to come back without all the flower photos hoped for, having at last got as many films as I could possibly want. But I had planned to get many interesting photos between Tsona and Dirang Dzong. Now I will take back 60 unused films. There is again very little in flower here. The hillside is covered with Rhododendron vellereum, but they have all been caught in a hail storm. Primula atrodentata, calderiana and pumilio are all in flower.

8th May. Lhaguari. Left at 7:00, got in at 1:00 pm. It was a very still night and I should think there were only 3-4 degrees of frost at night and it was fairly clear this morning. We took about an hour to reach the pass, and as we got to the top a real blizzard started, blowing hard up the south side. This lasted for about an hour and a half when it cleared up, but there were heavy storms all round for the rest of the day. We got in at 1:00 pm and were just about to choose a campsite at the Lingka, when the local clerk came down and said we were asked by the Jetsun Kusho to go to the Gompa. I foolishly agreed, so here we are, stuck in clean, but cold and extremely uncomfortable quarters, with little privacy. One should never leave the comfort and privacy of one's tent. Although they say here that we will get off tomorrow, I have no doubt at all that we will at least not get off till midday. On the North side of the Potrang La there were a great many blackbirds. We have had albocinctus all the way up from Kongbo, but he left us at Lenda, though there were a few at Lhapso. His place is taken by maximus at high altitudes now. He was very common from 15,500' - 16,500'. There were also at least 6 pairs of snow cock, very tame. Crossoptilon were up to 15,500' and mixed up with all of them were

LSH/1/1/8/1/103 · Part · 1947-05-06
Part of The Ludlow & Sherriff Collection

SUMMARY:
The diarist notes snowbound conditions near Kuling and observes monks making incense at a monastery. On 9 May at Hoet, promised transport animals failed to arrive; the party was entertained by the lively Jetsun Kusho, who is fond of Mohammed. On 10 May they obtained transport, reached Rong Dzong, and stayed in the Jetsun Kusho’s lingka house; she and her nun servant have traveled to Tawang and Sahden.

CONTENT:
Kuling. Again there were practically no flowers to be seen. On this side of the pass, down to about 14,500 the ground was covered in snow, so we could see nothing anyway. The monastery here is more active than it was before. There are a few monks with the Jetsun's staff. All at the moment are busy making incense. It is put in a press attached to one of the big pillars, then with much noise, singing and praying, it is pressed out through a small hole like toothpaste. Then it is cut to exact lengths and stacked on the floor to dry. The old lady sits in a chair and watches it all. She is a cheerful soul and full of life yet. She has done what she imagines we like for us, so we must be grateful. But again I say never again will we stay in a house!

9th May. Hoet. Although we were told everything would be ready, no animals turned up at all, and we had to spend the day here—very bored and very cold indeed. The old Jetsun Kusho came and entertained us with her lively talk. She is very taken by Mohammed; our Kazakh keeps on sending for him to talk to. There is little activity here today, the incense having been finished. The only time this place fills up is apparently in the 5th Tibetan month when all the monks of Tarpo Trapsang (the Panchen Lama's birthplace) come to Lhagyari and then do a pilgrimage back another way.

10th May. Rong Dzong. The call for transport failed to turn up and it seems, even sent a message to say they wouldn't come. So men were sent out last night to several villages and brought in sufficient for our needs today, and we got off by 7:45 am. The transport was the usual bullocks and very small donkeys. We got in, after a very hot march at 3:30 and our kit at 7:35 pm. The Jetsun Kusho insisted on our staying in her lingka house here—in her own room in fact. It is very quiet and very clean too; we are pleasantly surprised. It lies just outside Rong, beside the river. I was surprised to hear that the Jetsun Kusho had often been to Tawang, and her old nun servant here says she has been to Sahden too.