Showing 54 results

SUMMARY:
After a 10-mile march to Menjisi in windy weather, the writer receives letters from Betty via Trinley and notes serious delays to H.H.'s stores sent from Lhuntse, affecting travel plans to Bumthang. Kapo is treating many syphilis patients with limited drugs, while reports mention Tshering doing well, Hicks being tired, the finding of P. Normaniana, a planned route via Ungar and Pimi, concerns from Tobgye about the Treaty and the Maharaj Kumar, and news from Norman regarding a problematic sale to Mintri.

CONTENT:
15th May Menjisi. 10 miles. Wet in the night, but fine today locally and with a very strong wind. I had a long talk with Kapo yesterday, who came in the morning and again for dinner. He gave me a letter from Betty, brought by Wangmo's Trinley. Incidentally H.H.'s large box of stores, sent off from Lhuntse on 4th to Betty, had only got 1 day's march from Lhuntse by May 11th. I don't know what had happened. That has held up other things too, as H.H.'s man cannot return to Bumthang till he has an answer from Betty. Kapo seems to be busy with his syphilis patients, who are a great many. But he finds difficulty in keeping them in Lhuntse. Also he cannot get other drugs for H.H. for other diseases. I gave him what I could spare. It was grand to hear again from Betty, though her letter was written some time ago. They seem to have done fairly well, and have also found P. Normaniana. Tshering doing well, and Hicks seemingly tired. I hope he can stand it all. We left at 5:15 this morning and got in about 10:30. This is a much better division of the marches - Lhuntse, Menjisi - Ungar - Pimi, and I must tell Betty to do the same. We passed another dak today and took ours out on Betty's unopened. This was a bigger one and was sent from K'pong on 29th April. I had several letters from Tobgye, worried about the Treaty and also the Maharaj Kumar's behaviour to him. He has not been at all kind, and his behaviour towards Tobgye is disgusting and disgraceful. I hope now that he will not get Kaysang, who is far too good for him. Norman's letter says that he is off, and he also thinks there may be difficulty about selling Crocket to Mintri, who is a slimy individual. Among other things sent to me is a will which I witnessed many years ago. It is sent in original, and I have to

SUMMARY:
The diarist notes many migratory birds from Tibet and poor seed results except likely from Marlung or passes to the west. On 21 Sept., they remain in camp while Yundon and Pasang collect Primula caveana and a fine woolly Phandra from Tamagorra Nala, returning late and exhausted, with Yundon suffering a bad headache. On 22 Sept., amid cold wind and intermittent rain and sun, letters arrive from H.H. and mail from Hicks and Ludlow, but none from Betty.

CONTENT:
This, in the same way as I did with Mec. simplicifolia. Hope it turns out well. The whole scene is too big for a cine-camera. There are a good many birds now on migration from Tibet. I saw hundreds of wagtails and two Afghan redstarts today. And I must have seen 20 Ibisbills, but they aren't on migration though. We did not do well with seed again, and certainly most of our seed this year will come from Marlung or over the passes to the West.

21st Sept. Halt. Rain at night, but a lovely day of sun and cumulus clouds. I stayed in camp to deal with yesterday's seeds, while Yundon and Pasang went up Tamagorra Nala to the NE to get P. caveana and the 8 plants of white caveana marked by Yundon when we were here before. They have just returned at 6:00 pm when I was beginning to be a bit anxious about them. Boulder scree is dangerous: one can very easily make a false step and have a nasty fall. It was too late for me to examine any seed brought, but they have got all the white P. caveana, and another basket of the usual caveana as no seed is ripe. They also found the very fine Phandra which is woolly all over, and which we took twice at Marlung, but never saw in very good flower. Today they have brought both seed and fine flower. It is a beautiful thing. I have not been able to see if the seed is good or not. Otherwise just a Sax or a Saussurea, and a few odd very small primula roots - perhaps P. cervicina or P. walshii, which I may take too. As they have had such a long day, we will not go out tomorrow, but I will do the seed and get the roots properly packed. Yundon returned with a very bad head, which he said he had most of the day.

22nd Sept. Halt. Stayed in camp. Rain and sun very cold indeed, with a strong wind. Letters came in from H.H. with food etc and a mail from Hicks, Ludlow and Kalimpong, but in some strange way no letters from Betty. Hers must have

SUMMARY:
On the diarist’s birthday at Chensi Rongang, Tasho—the girls’ brother—arrived from herding, and local girls sought medicine, including for gonorrhoea; the diarist departed after declining to host them. Reports accuse the headman of Kuoma of extracting rice and supplies despite H.H.’s contrary order, prompting the need for action. The route climbed over Latsi La and continued to Tongnanying before a steep, muddy descent into dense forest after overnight rain.

CONTENT:
rather silly that we are so close and so far away.
3rd May - Chensi Rongang. 8 miles Ht approx. 6500'

My birthday. Yesterday did not finish when I thought it had. A very filthy man arrived and greeted me in Hindi. He was Tasho, the brother of the girls. They all have the same father and mother except the lad who has a different mother. He had come in from herding the cows. He was a cheerful soul whom I liked best of all. The younger girl came again with a bunch of hangers-on: she wanted medicine for gonorrhoea. She is not an attractive girl in any way, and her sister, suffering as she is, is much nicer, cleaner and easier to talk to. The hangers-on all wanted medicine and were not very grateful for it. I was very glad indeed to escape this morning, though that meant saying goodbye to the sisters. I refused to have them in my tent, so little time was wasted. All the hangers-on were, I thought, unpleasant; now we also hear that the headman of Kuoma has been doing the locals down by saying that he is to collect rice and other things for me, although he knows H.H.'s order to the contrary. The men had to give quite a lot, none of which I saw incidentally. So we must take some action on that.

The road leads up steeply to the Latsi La at m 1, then more or less flat over steep grass hillside for 2 m. to Tongnanying and so on to m 4 where it suddenly enters dense forest and drops very steeply indeed for some 1500 feet I should think. The path was very muddy and slippery. It had rained all night, but luckily was not raining this morning till after

SUMMARY:
Notes on film sent from Bumthang and exposure issues; shooting was limited due to Tobgye’s concern about H.H.’s views on filming in E. Bhutan. Describes arrival at Bumthang with a pompous musical welcome by H.H.’s trained band, mentions groups on the Kykji Pass, and the march to Bumthang (9 miles, alt. 9900').

CONTENT:
41

14.7.33
Sent from Bumthang on Report 2 to 17 satisfactory, slightly underexposed.
18A colour filter on wrong column complimentary.

Quite a lot of sun. We had hoped to spend the whole day shooting, but Tobgye is anxious as to what H.H. will say about our shooting in E. Bhutan, and does not want us to spoil our chances by shooting too much now.

16 B. finished. 11th July. To BUMTHANG. 9850. 9 miles. (Alt. 9900').
Arrival at Bumthang. Arrived in a blaze of trumpets, bagpipes, drums and other instruments at Bumthang. A pleasant camp on a fine day. Everyone now knows
Groups on the Kykji Pass. that the way to please W. is to give him a pompous kind of welcome, and he was as pleased as Punch to
the cavalcade. see all this turn out in his honour. H.H. has
No. 17. B. the nucleus of an army in 25 young Bhutanese
In Bumthang. trained by a man who did some years with the
Archery and 8th Gurkhas. They possess three bagpipes, two bugles,
other scenes. a cornet and 2 fifes. Add them to the kettle drums,
No. 18. big drum, and surnais of the bodyguard, and you get

SUMMARY:
The writer describes Tibetan superstitions, particularly the aversion to shooting hares due to their donkey-like ears. After delays at Lala and slow transport with yaks and donkeys, they arrived late at Towa, where a curry made overly hot by Ahmad Sheikh left Ludlow unable to eat, though strawberries and cream from H.H. were excellent.

CONTENT:
for thinking that this was a good moment, was because
all over Tibet this year the crops have been good. They have
many superstitions these people, one is always coming
across them. I don't think any of the local people would
mind us shooting in the least: but they would hate to
see us shoot a hare. There are many reasons for this,
one of which is that the hare has ears like a donkey,
and a donkey is a much valued animal. Our
arrival at Towa was really most amusing - not at the
time, but after we had had a day to think it over.
Owing partly to the delay in changing transport at
Lala, and partly to the fact that we had yaks and donkeys
among the transport, we did not get in till 7.0 pm.
We had breakfasted as usual at 5.0 am and had had
practically nothing since then. So we were very hungry
and ordered, to save time, tinned soup, curry and rice and
a tin of strawberries which H.H. gave us, and one of cream
also H.H.'s present. The soup was rotten stuff, and we
looked forward to a real tuck in of curry. But Ahmad
Sheikh had put the chillies and powder in with a very
unsteady hand in the dark, and it was so hot Ludlow
could eat none at all. I managed a good deal, but
felt it for a long time afterwards. The strawberries and
cream were really excellent. When we arrived

SUMMARY:
The writer describes court etiquette around H.H., with Nahu the Donyer managing access and notes language difficulties between Hindi and North Country Urdu. They observe the army’s routines, play football with them, note Dunkley’s request to see the 2.75-inch gun whose ammunition is in Trongsa, and remark on H.H.’s newly built Dzong with a corrugated iron roof.

CONTENT:
85a

...or even Nahu and the Maharani. None are allowed before him unless called for. Nahu is the Donyer and brings people to see H.H., but he himself must not come unless called. I noticed how he had always to stand behind H.H.; this must have been rather awkward for him once when I was explaining a camera to H.H. and kept turning the camera in a different direction. As H.H. turned, so Nahu had to run behind him. I have had a little difficulty with language, H.H. talking Hindi and I answering in North Country Urdu. [It is perhaps because of that that I cannot get anything very definite about the forests.] The Army now has its own lines, cook houses, and everything; they parade regularly most of the morning. They are a smart lot and seem pretty keen too. I played football against them once and had an amusing but not scientific game. Dunkley asked to see the 2.75-inch gun. It is all here, but ammunition is missing; it is all in Trongsa. The Army has its own signallers who practice daily and a band of drums, bagpipes, fifes, and trumpets. H.H. has made a fine new Dzong here, all to his own design. To my mind, it is spoilt by the corrugated iron roof. It is built in a good position, nice and open, commanding a good view.

SUMMARY:
Notes discussions with H.H. on a new treaty affecting Bhutan, mention of Tasho Jigme’s freedom to travel, and soldiers sent up the Bumthang road to collect flowers including Prim. bracteosa, a Magnolia, and a Daphne. On 8th April they watched Bhutanese dancers and later hosted H.H. for a long session reminiscing about Calcutta and P.O.'s Gould, Williamson, Bailey, and Bell; letters from Kalimpong reported Ludlow’s departure and Norman’s sale of Glenulli.

CONTENT:
almost 300." I hope something may be done, because certainly already many lakhs of rupees worth of damage has been done in the last 30 years or so. H.H. was undoubtedly interested, & doubly so as the new Treaty, although it promises 5 lakhs of cash annually to Bhutan, also says this may be stopped at any time if the Treaty is not kept. This sounds like a convenient loophole. We also talked about Tasho Jigme, & H.H. said that he could travel where he liked in Bhutan. I still hope to have further talks, as H.H. seems to like it. H.H. sent three soldiers up the Bumthang road to see what flowers they could get, & they brought back Prim. bracteosa, a Magnolia & a Daphne that were interesting.

8th April. Our time here has not all been lazy. H.H. has entertained us fully & we have entertained him too. We were down on 6th to watch Bhutanese dancers, male & female, & the next day we had H.H. up for a good long session, 1.0pm till 5.30. He was then in great form reminiscing, mostly about his Calcutta visit & various doings of P.O.'s Gould, Williamson, Bailey or Bell. Mostly he talks of Bailey, of whom he certainly has the highest opinion. He would very much like to see Bailey again, & thinks he may come here sometime yet. I know Bailey is anxious to come, & if he does, he will get a welcome. We have not bothered much about flowers, but took a few more yesterday from round about, including Albizzia Sherriffii (18657), which is a fine tree. Tobgye sent a few letters on from Kalimpong, which arrived yesterday. No special news, except that Ludlow got off alright, & that Norman had sold Glenulli.

SUMMARY:
After halts with photo work and rain, the party marched into Bumthang, where H.H. visited for hours and asked that T.K. return home with them. Betty arrived with Hicks via the Badr La; they met H.H. at the palace grounds, exchanged gifts, and arranged travel to Ha, the Me La, and Chanderi, with plans for seed work and a move to Brarich.

CONTENT:
24th Halt. Mostly developed photos. A good deal of rain.

25th July. Bumthang. A short march of about 4-5 miles into camp at the "football ground" of 1933, where now there are large and comfortable quarters made for P.O.s, but never yet used by them. H.H. called in the afternoon and stayed some hours and was in good form. He told me he definitely wanted T.K. to go home with us. This will all be very difficult for us, but it must be done. I have heard that we are likely to get Brarich, so we will have to move into an unfurnished new house on arrival. There will be very hard work there.

26th-30th Halt. Good weather each day, with bright sunshine most of the day, and very heavy rain at night. Betty arrived on 26th with Hicks, and we met her on the Badr La. She has great pain always, but the arm is getting on slowly, and she can manage now to do everything herself. We arranged to go together to Ha only, from where I will return here for seed. On our way in from the Badr La, H.H. met us in a tent in the palace grounds. Next day we all called on him and had lunch and tea and gave our presents. Then he came here on 28th with the children and Choden for lunch and tea. He is coming again today for lunch and to say goodbye to Betty and Ludlow. H.H. has been very kind indeed as usual and did not turn a hair at all the requests we made: Hicks back to the Me La; Ludlow to Chanderi and wants a special riding yak; B and I to Ha and then I come back here and to Waitang. For presents we gave steel bows and 12 steel arrows; saffron, pens, jumpers, and many other things, and to the Ashis velvet from Liberty's and four blue jumpers and gloves.

SUMMARY:
Halted in Bumthang, the diarist visited H.H., discussed plans regarding Paro and Chamurchi, local administrative matters including Tashi Drunyer, received reports from Lhasa about Kapsinpa Shape’s imprisonment, and noted heavy rain damage near Chenderi and the Ha–Chamurchi road area; Betty was expected in London, and Dorji was treated with penicillin and M&B 760. On 5th September they marched in rain to Shabjetang and observed a new Codonopsis common near the Dhur river, collecting tubers and another pressing.

CONTENT:
3rd & 4th Sept. Halt Bumthang. I went to H.H. each day, had 3 hours alone the first day and a short visit, when Choden was present, the second day. H.H. was very easy to talk to and had much more to say. He is worried about Paro and the poor servants who are there running the place—or failing to. He will go there himself in a month or two's time. Then on to Chamurchi for a month or more. I tried to get him to say he would go on to Kalimpong, but I don't think he will. He talks now of doing many things for the locals, and probably will. I just hope they will be practical and not overdone. I asked him not to spoil Tashi Drunyer by letting him do nothing and have a dozen servants or so, but to give him a definite job of work. I wonder if he will. Tashi will be left in Bumthang though, with his brother, when H.H. goes to Paro. Two of Purbo Wangdi's servants returned from Lhasa yesterday. They described Kapsinpa Shape as being very securely imprisoned, with iron manacles on wrists and legs and a cangue round his neck, and shut up in a closely walled-in room, from which there is no normal exit. More reports of road damage come in from near Chenderi and more extensive from the Ha-Chamurchi road area. The rain must certainly have been very, very heavy these last 15 days or so. Betty should have reached London on the 3rd, all being well. I continued to give Dorji penicillin injections, 100,000 units at a time till I had given 10 injections. Then I gave him a course of M&B 760. He is very much better and should manage to reach Ludlow all right.

5th September Shabjetang. Rain almost all day. Left at 6:30 and in at 10:00. Nothing of interest, except that the new Codonopsis (Convolvulaceae 19674) is common from the mouth of the Dhur river, for quite a long way up this valley. We took 14 tubers and another pressing. There is a...

SUMMARY:
After a short march, the diarist set up an aerial and tested the wireless, receiving London clearly and noting it is much improved, intending to give it to H.H. The day was hot with leeches, ticks, and biting flies; the route went down through Surelakha cultivation to cross the Rong Nala, then up the Ratrikhola past Pakhegaon to a ridge.

CONTENT:
Chirony. After such a short march, I put up an aerial and tried the wireless; it functioned very well indeed, London coming through particularly well. This wireless is very much better than last year's, and should be very popular with H.H. if I give it to him as I intend to.

26th April. Camp in jungle N.W. of Surelakha 7 1/2 miles.
B.P. 202.8° Temp. 71° Time 4.0pm.

Fine all day, with only slight rain last night. The march was awfully hot and rather tiring. Leeches in masses, ticks common and dimdam flies a perfect curse here in camp. Path follows down Surelakha cultivation till the valley bed is reached at m 1. Here the Rong Nala is crossed. It would be difficult or impossible in the rains, but locals say they make a bridge. Thence up a small side valley called the Ratrikhola, whose water is clear, but the stones are very red, and the water smells badly of sulphur. This is crossed several times and then the ascent is steep to a clearing where there are a few houses, called Pakhegaon, this at m 3. Thence steep to a ridge beyond the clearing which is reached at m 4. There is