Showing 8 results

SUMMARY:
A 14-mile march with heavy climbs brought the party to Sakden via the Munde La, where the cooler elevation was welcome. Ludlow arrived ill with fever and neuralgia, while Gulla collapsed en route with a high temperature, possibly malaria from Menoka or Diwangiri. Botanical finds were limited, including a few orchids, several rhododendrons, and a spirea.

CONTENT:
once to Sakden to say that two of each were to be ready for us on arrival.

2nd July. To SAKDEN. 14 miles. (B.P. 195.0° = 9095' Temp. 65°).

A difficult day for everyone, as the march was so long. 14 miles does not seem long, but add to it 4000 odd feet of climb and many descents of 500 feet and reclimbs of 500 feet in between, it is a good day's march. Ludlow was feeling poor in the morning when we left, and had no breakfast. He came straight on here, and went to bed with fever, though not much temperature. He has bad neuralgia and pains in the legs. Gulla gave out halfway, now has a temperature of 102°. I'm afraid he must have got malaria in Menoka or Diwangiri.

Sakden is a splendid place. We are at last at the right height, where it is cool. It was a hot day, and even up here pretty sweaty walking, but the nights will be grand. The climb up here is awful, up steps half the way. Over the Munde La, the country suddenly opens out, there is a large area of grassland - ideal grazing ground. Flowers on the way were rather disappointing, I only found two orchids, four rhododendrons and a spirea and one or two other small things. One rhododendron, white with red streaks up the corolla segments, is almost

SUMMARY:
Diary notes describe severe midges and rain while collecting Primula cortusoides and rhododendrons off the Nyug La ridge, followed by a weather-hampered attempt along the ridge. The party returns to Lalung where Tsongpen shoots a tragopan near camp and the diarist has a good day of bird shooting as weather improves; plant notes include R. edgeworthii, Pinus wallichiana, Cypripedium hookerae, and Monotropa uniflora.

CONTENT:
P. laciniata 3649
Here, off the ridge, Primula cortusoides No. 3649, is in masses and very pretty. Otherwise the only thing we got was a very fine Rhododendron 3708 (Rh. rude 3707), which is the same as that found in bud on the Nyug La (= 3670). Otherwise there was nothing, and the only bird I wanted to shoot was an Ixulus - beside the tragopan. The midges at these two camps have been too awful for words. They simply swarm in dense clouds everywhere, and it is impossible to stand still for a minute. I have a smoke fire in my tent, which is infinitely preferable to the midges. Gulla and Tsongpen are with me - Gulla as cook, he is perfectly good. Tsongpen and I will try our luck as far as we can go tomorrow. I'm afraid a new primula on my birthday is hardly likely. (Sherriff's birthday)

3rd May. Same camp. Rained all night, and has rained hard all day today without a stop. A perfectly filthy day. Tsongpen and I, with two men, cut our way up as far as we could go along the ridge. There cliffs blocked our way, and we could not go either side. So, soaked through and freezing cold, we returned to camp. I am very glad that the coolies agree, or say they do, to go back in one day. It seemed easily possible, none of us have any desire for any more of this ridge. At the highest point reached, we found some rhododendrons in flower, but only those seen before. There was no sign of any primulas, or of anything else for that matter. Heavy rain and dense forest is too much to compete with, either for birds or flowers. So I am just sitting in camp, hoping for the day to pass quickly, which of course it won't do. This camp is just mud now, and everything we have is wet and filthy. I think Gulla will be happiest when he gets back tomorrow. When used to driving cars, this is a change in the wrong direction.

4th May. Camp Lalung. 5 miles. Rained in morning, some sun at Lalung at midday, rained in evening. It only took the coolies 5 1/2 hours to return here, instead of the 12 going. Just as we were ready to leave camp, we heard tragopan calling, and one came close to camp (Tragopan in perfect plumage). Tsongpen went after it and got it in a rhododendron. I saw two more, but could not get a shot with the rifle. All were within 50 yards of camp. I got a few other birds too on the way down. Ludlow had had a bad day of rain yesterday too, and was pretty fed up with getting few birds. We were all glad to get back to a decent dry level camp again.

5th May. Halt Lalung. Fine and sunny the whole day. Looks as if we were in for a spell of fine weather - a rash thing to prophesy here. I went out on a ridge 500 ft above camp and had some good shooting. Every morning about 7.30, spine-tailed swifts arrive, and then spend the day feeding in this valley, going home wherever that is, in the evening. They are said to fly at 200 mph, and they are a...

R. edgeworthii 3709, 3720 Pinus wallichiana 3711
Cypripedium hookerae 3708, Monotropa uniflora 3710

SUMMARY:
Record of wages and advances paid to several individuals, with entries noting money orders and settlement dates in 1934. Mentions an advance by Tobgye and identifies Danong as Lepcha, son of Ribu. Location given as the Cinchona Plantation at Mungpoo in the Darjeeling District.

CONTENT: PAY etc.

Ahmad Sheikh. Paid Rs. 150/- from April 1st on May 6th. 235 on 1.12.34. = Paid to 31.12.34.
Gulla. Pay Rs. 90/- = May, June, July. 210 on = Paid to 30.12.34.
Danong. X Paid Rs. 50/- on May 23 by M.O. Rs. 10 Tsuna. 13.8. Rs. 50 28.9. Rs. 150/- 14.11.34
Pintso. X Paid Rs. 50/- Advance by Tobgye 9.6.34. Paid Rs. 250/- 14.11.34
Kurtip. X Paid Rs. 20 on 20.9. in Dib La (+ Rs. 5.1.10.) + Rs. 75/- Paid in full. 5.11.34.

Danong Lepcha son of Ribu. other Lepcha.
Cinchona Plantation.
Mungpoo. Darjeeling District.

• SUMMARY:
  Ledger entries record sheep and yak-related payments and totals. Rates of pay and settlements are listed for Pintso, Tenduk, Dancunq, Tsongpen, and notes payments to Ahmad Sheikh and Gulla.

CONTENT:
Sheep

• 4/9
• 10/9 Yak
• 14/9
• 26/9
• 30/9
• 1st Nov. Total
• Ludlow 1/11
• 8/11
• 18/11
• 28/10
• 15/6
• 27/11
• Total
  Thembatse -/8
• 15/-
• 1/-
• 10/-
• 109
• 8/-
• 10/-
• 5/-
• 127
  -/8
• 1/-
• 10/-
• 77
• 5/-
• 40/-
• 5/-
• 127
  -/8
• 5/-
• 1/-
• 5/-
• 10/-
• 77
• 10/-
• 10/-
• 87
  -/8
• 10/-
• 1/-
• 25/- (M.O.)
• 5/-
• 82
• 10/-
• to
• 10/-
• 92
  3/- -/8
• 5/-
• 1/4
• 10/-
• 50
• Tsona-Ludlow 10/-
• 10
• 75
  -/8
• 5/-
• 1/4
• 10/-
• 48
• 10/-
• Gulla 10
• 68

Rates of pay:
Pintso @ 45/- p.m. Due 450. Tenhas 1400. Remainder to pay Rs 183 + 45. Paid.
Tenduk @ 25/- = 250. Paid - Rs 163 + 25.
Dancunq @ 40/- = 400. Paid - Rs 268 + 40.
Tsongpen @ 30/- = 300. Paid - Rs 208 + 30. Paid 28/11.
Total: 822 + 140 = 962.

1st Nov. Ahmad Sheikh Paid at Rs 45 up to and including April, with Rs 25/- over. Paid to end Nov.
" Gulla Paid at Rs 40. - - - - - - - Rs 10/- over.

SUMMARY:
The diarist records compass bearings from Chera La to several snow peaks and notes that two western peaks with glaciers are uncharted. Due to locals stating there is no yak route to Chera and limited manpower, the party decides to split: the diarist with A. Sheikh, Gulla, and Kurtip to Chera, and Ludlow with Pintso, Ramzana, and Danong to Luguthang.

CONTENT:
Chera La as follows: from Chirachun to a snow peak in direction of Tawang 284° Mag. From Chera La up the Dongma Chu to a snow peak at the head of the river 36° Mag. From Chera La to a snow peak west of the Tulung La 332° Mag. The two western of these peaks are not shown on the map at all. Both look over 20,000 ft. and have glaciers on them. In camp here, we find considerable trouble. The locals now say we cannot get by yaks to the mountains to the west at all. This makes things very difficult indeed. We may manage things by dividing camp, I going where they say they can't take yaks, and Ludlow going to Luguthang or some such place. But wherever we go, it is a gamble. We must choose some valley to settle in for a week or two and work thoroughly. If it's good, we win, if it's bad we lose, as the time for flowers will be over.

NB
To split up:—
S to Chera
L to Luguthang

Later. The decision is now made: there is definitely no yak route to Chera — the place I intend going to. As there are only 15 available men, only one of us can go there. So I, with A. Sheikh, Gulla and Kurtip go there; while Ludlow goes to Luguthang with Pintso, Ramzana and Danong. They say that laden yaks will find it difficult to go to Luguthang ("the sheep plain"). Our boxes are so unlike

SUMMARY:
The party splits, with S. going up the Lando Chu towards Molo and Tsari while Ludlow and Taylor head to Lusha; the diarist travels via Tsela Dzong with Gulla and the Tsongpen, aiming to meet Kusho. Taylor is improving but will avoid the passes, with Tendrup assigned most passes and Ludlow to do Lusha La; notes mention continuing rain, river levels on the Tsangpo and Nyang Chu, and timelines to Dewangiri. Mail news: Kusho has returned from Lhasa, and Norbhu redirected the mail via Gyantse.

CONTENT:
Sept 16 Party splits - S. up the Lando Chu then on to Molo, the Do La, Langong Valley & Tsari
L. & T. to Lusha - then up the Pan La across to Tsari. Tamnyen La - Po-Doshong La

14th Sept. } Halt Temo. Rained a good deal, hardly any sun to dry our seeds. All plans made for
15th " } future. Ludlow & Taylor go off to Lusha tomorrow, while I start off too, via Tsela Dzong - Taylor very much better & able to do quite a lot. Gulla & Tsongpen only accompany me, but we hope to pick up Kusho in Tsela Dzong.

16th September. Ligding. 8 miles. Fine, but still very cloudy, with rain apparently constant on the Main Range. We have now parted again, Ludlow & Taylor going over to Lusha to start collecting in that area, while I go West. Taylor will not do the Passes, but Tendrup will work them all but the Lusha La, which Ludlow will do. They will thus be very quick, & should leave Tse before the end of the month. Taylor wants to return as quickly as possible, seeing he cannot work the passes, & he should & must be in Dewangiri by the 16th November. I work out my moves to get me down there by the 1st Dec. if I travel fast, & so I hardly think that Ludlow will wait for me so long. It looks as if we should not meet again this trip till we are in Kashmir, or won't see Taylor certainly. He is much better, & were his tongue only reasonably clean, I would say he was safely out of the wood. He is a difficult person to feed, being very particular about what he eats, & that is not easy to cope with on a trip like this. Although the rain continues, - we have had no sun at all these last three days - the monsoon must be over except for odd rain on the Main Range, which we always notice goes on till the 18th Oct or so. The Tsangpo went down two or three feet during the week we were at Temo, and it is a good 12 ft or more lower than it was when at its highest. The Nyang Chu does not show such a big drop nearly.

17th Sept. Tsela Dzong. Rain at night & showery today. It took us a good long time to get ponies etc to be transported over here. There are 5 branches of the river to cross. The Nyang Chu has only dropped a foot since we were here on 10th August. Kusho is here, having returned from Lhasa in 8 days. The mail had not reached Lhasa when he caught it up on, I think, the 31st Aug. Norbhu stayed the mail runner & sent him back here, while he sent on our mail to Gyantse by the Tibetan post. He expected it back in 8 days & was then to send it to

SUMMARY:
The diarist travels by lorry from Srinagar to Kud, notes heat and crowded lodging, and lists team members Ramzana, Ahmad Sheikh, and Gulla. The journey continues to Lahore in extreme heat, with a near fuel shortage, before boarding the Calcutta mail and using ice to keep Lumiere films cool.

CONTENT:
13th June, 1934. KUD. Left Srinagar by lorry at 7.15 am & had a good run down to Kud. No signs of the monsoon even Kud being pretty hot, although well over 5000'. Kud bungalow very popular: we first had a room each, then moved in together to make room for two females: finally slept out on the verandah, as a married couple turned up. Lorry to Lahore cost Rs. 60 + tolls of Rs. 30. This year we are taking with us this year Ramzana & Ahmad Sheikh & Gulla too. Gulla has learnt skinning fairly well.

14th June. Lahore. Left at 5.15 am & had a good run down to Lahore, which we reached at 2.15 pm. But the lorry driver nearly gave us a lot of trouble by running out of petrol. Another lorry luckily came along soon & gave us some spare. All the way today was very hot indeed, Lahore being 116°. Caught the Calcutta mail at 7.0 pm & loaded our compartment with kit & two bath tubs each with 80 lbs ice in them. I was particularly anxious to try to keep a box cool in which I have all my Lumiere films. So I put one bath tub full of ice on top of it, & I think it kept cool enough. The max. temp in the compartment was 110°, minimum 85°, even with the ice.

SUMMARY:
At Tso Burnag Lake Camp, the writer describes fir- and rhododendron-covered hillsides, notes deer sign, and mentions Gulla suffering severe pain after Lumsden treated his poisoned foot. The writer and Lumsden bathe in the cold lake at high altitude. On 16th August, they halt and search hillsides east of the lakes, find no new plants, and the writer briefly encounters a herd of burhel without success.

CONTENT:
neither so big nor so interesting. Hillsides well covered with fir for 500 ft. then rhododendron. Many crenophilum about, and much deer, and there are said to be kuling also. Gulla had a rotten day today. His foot is poisoned, Lumsden cut it 2 days ago, putting in a local anaesthetic in a septic wound. The result is awful pain to poor old Gulla. L. has made a mess of everything he has done in that way, and can only give iodine with safety. This afternoon, as it was sunny, Lumsden and I had a bathe in the lake, which shelves down pretty quickly just 10 yards in front of our camp. It was cold of course, though not as bad as I would have thought. The temp of the water was 51°. Swimming at 13000' is hard work, and I only went out 10 yards or so. It was lovely, especially when out!

Tso Burnag Lake Camp.
16th August. Halt. Tried the hillside to the E of the lakes. But they held nothing new, and the only gentian in any numbers was G. stictantha (?? Przewalskii), which was not yet out. I walked almost into a herd of 20 burhel, but had my eyes on a cliff. They were off at once, though I just had time to change ammunition and have two snapshots at them without doing any damage.