Showing 19 results

SUMMARY:
Camped on a steep slope near Chukar, the party finds the location friendlier than Mago or Tsena though lacking level ground. On a halt day, the writer went with Danang to nearby cliffs to collect primulas and delphinium, noted Thalictrum of Mago and the Tulung La Meconopsis, and arranged for a local man to care for specimens with plans to retrieve them from Trashiyangsi in October.

CONTENT:
67

is hardly surprising however. Our yak men are a deformed looking lot, but cheerful enough. Everyone here is pleasanter than in either Mago or in Tsena. I wish we had known of this place before. I'm sure it would have proved of great interest a month or more earlier. There is barely room for tents here, we are all on a horrible slope. If it rains hard, we will undoubtedly be washed out of our tents. But there is no level ground anywhere near. Probably a better camp would be beside the river, but in fact we did not go down so low, as I would have had a hard climb tomorrow.

19th August. Halt at Chukar. In the morning I went with Danang up to the cliffs, wandered about them hoping to find more than the three primulas of yesterday, but got nothing new. Bagged 16 of the new primula & 6 of the blue one. Also this evening bagged 6 delphinium. A local man is to look after them, & I will send a man from Trashiyangsi in October to retrieve the lot. I hope the scheme works. The pretty Thalictrum of Mago is growing here too & the Tulung La Meconopsis. Quite a good day on the whole, but

SUMMARY:
At Chayul, the diarist notes poor weather and that Danang and Tendru have not yet arrived. The Dzongpen kindly arranges to send mail to Tsona, while Tsongpen is unwell for translation work. The following day is a fine halt day; mail is dispatched early, expected to reach Tsona by the 4th and Ludlow around the 10th, while the party still awaits Danang and company.

CONTENT:
31st October. Chayul. Rain during last night, & cloudy all day with a strong cold wind up the valley. Danang & Tendru have not arrived yet. The Dzongpen is very kind, & is arranging to send a mail on from here to Tsona. I don't know, he has his doubts, whether Tsona will send it on at once, but I hope so. We have not met today, as Tsongpen hardly feels up to the translation work with a Dzongpen. Mail leaves tomorrow morning.

1st November. Chayul. Halt. Stayed in camp, a very boring day. Danang & Co have not arrived, but I don't think they will be later than tomorrow, the arranged date. If they are, it means they must have been held up for transport. Today was a perfect day. It rained a little in the night, & there was snow very low down. For the first time yet, the wind blew down the valley, & this is the best sign of the end of the monsoon we have had. Not a cloud in the sky this evening. The mail went off this morning before 6.0, & the man will reach Tsona on the 4th midday. At that rate it should reach Ludlow about the 10th Nov.

SUMMARY:
Diary notes describe travel from Chosam to Senguthi with observations on terrain and vegetation, including early-season flowers. Medical events include Danang receiving a third dose of treatment and Lumsden extracting Pintso’s wisdom tooth, which caused a difficult night. The party halted on the 17th and then proceeded to Yarap on the 18th.

CONTENT:
72

Chosam to Senguthi
16th May. Senguthi. 4 miles. B.P. 188.4 Temp. 48° Time 4.30 pm.
Ht. 13198'. Path keeps up the left bank, almost level.
Pass Chosam, which has 20 houses, at mile 1, where there is a bridge over the Tsari Chu. Keep level to mile 3 where the path drops to the big open plain of Senguti. Here the valley is quite open, some hundreds of yards across of flat rather boggy ground. The hills both sides are covered with trees, on the south face chiefly juniper & rhododendron, on the north face abies & rhododendron.
There are signs of a good many flowers coming, but not much up, only a fine Adonis 1600 (Adonis brevistyla v. sutchuenensis 1600), & a little Gentian 1603 (Gentian bryoides 1603). Meconopsis will be in flower in a fortnight or so. Danang had his 3rd dose, & Lumsden pulled out one of Pintso's teeth, a wisdom tooth, & an overdose of the local anaesthetic gave him a very bad night today. I hope he recovers soon.

17th May. Halt. Went up nala to the NW of camp, but saw nothing out, but a solitary rhododendron here & there. Fine with a short shower.

18th May. Yarap. 10 m. B.P. 190.1 Temp. 60° Time 3.0 pm. Ht. 12550'.

SUMMARY:
The writer notes heavy tick infestations, photographs a Lopa at Lung identified as a Ding Abor, and mentions Giris and a third tribe down the Subansiri. On 3rd May at Trün (his birthday), Danang and Tenduk return with an anemone (1540) and a distinct rhododendron (1541), report a gompa and nearby houses on an upper road, and the writer observes flowering loniceras, attractive podophyllum (1538), and a primula from Natrampa.

CONTENT:
60

many ticks about here too. In the bamboo they seem to swarm. Ludlow got one on him yesterday. And when he got up in the night, he found it on the place where the wounded Irishman said to the kind old lady "if you'd been wounded where I was ma'am, you wouldn't have been wounded at all".

The Lopa whose colour photo I took at Lung is a Ding Abor. Others with white woollen clothes are called Giris. There is said to be a third tribe down the Subansiri, who are said to be the worst of the lot, who wear nothing but a loin covering of monkey skin.

3rd May. Trün 6 am. My birthday. Nothing much exciting. Danang and Tenduk came back, but had nothing much except a rather nice anemone 1540, and a rhododendron which looks different 1541. He said there were primulas coming on, and many rhododendrons too. He reports a large gompa up there, and beside it about 15 houses. The road there from here is good, and must be much pleasanter than the low one. Nothing much here. I found two loniceras in flower, and the podophyllum 1538, is really very pretty when out in numbers. The little primula from Natrampa collected.

SUMMARY:
Travel from Chumpithang to Karponang and then on to Kalimpong in fine but cold weather, with extensive seed collecting including Meconopsis superba and Gentiana depressa. Transport was arranged at Rinchengang for Danang and Tseringpen; Betty was met near Gangtok before reaching Kalimpong, where coolies were paid off and a lorry arranged. Plants were later sent by air from Calcutta via BOAC.

CONTENT:
and most of the way down here. But luckily it cleared up before we reached the pass and was a perfect day. We stopped a good long time on the passes, and collected all the Meconopsis superba seed we could, there must have been 3 or 4 lbs I should think. Beautiful views of clouds everywhere. Got in about dusk and heard that all loads had caught up now.

1st Nov. Chumpithang. Beautiful day, very cold and hard frost in the morning. Found Danang and Tseringpen in Rinchengang still waiting for transport, which we fixed up for them, and came on here. They will come one day later. A good deal of Gentiana depressa in flower still 2 miles before getting here. Stayed here in a tent, as there is now no bungalow.

2nd Nov. Karponang. Another perfect day, and cold but dead clear on the Natu, with a fine view of Chomolhari in the distance. Again in just before dusk, but with all the kit, and also got quite good seed on the way.

3rd Nov. Kalimpong. Met Betty 2 miles above Gangtok, she having started before dawn for through the whole way in the car. Her arm is of course much better, but it is rather disappointing still. Paid off all coolies, arranged a lorry for tomorrow and got home by 3:00 in very good order with plants and everything none the worse.

Later. Sent off plants by air from Calcutta by BOAC.

SUMMARY:
The diarist manages specimens and arranges penicillin injections for Danang in hospital, while noting a letter from Ludlow via Yundu confirming successful plant finds. Plans are made for travel to meet Ludlow at Pasu Sefu and for Pasang and Mundrup to collect primulas via Tumle La, Tongsa, Chendesi, and Ritang, with mention of a hoped-for bridge over the Tang Chu.

CONTENT:
I've a lot to do, with photos and dry flowers. Danang is here in hospital. He seems better, but I have not yet seen him. I hope he will come tomorrow, as I have asked the doctor to come too, and will start 4 hourly injections. I have only 10 doses I can give him, and hope that will do the trick. Ludlow sent a letter with Yundu, and a small press of flowers. He has found every one of the wanted plants - P. umbratilis alba, P. tsariensis, P. tsariensis alba, P. uniflora, Lychnis Wardii, P. strumosa and fine forms of Meconopsis horridula. Yundu has marked all the plants too, and I hope will be able to get them all in October. If so, that little trip will have been very worth while.

2nd September. Haat. Mostly fine in the valley, with a heavy shower or two. I got Danang along here this morning. There is no doubt he is better than he was. But I am sure that penicillin must be the thing to give him, as I have 10 injections, we have started at 12 today. He must take a chance after this, as I must go off on 5th. He and Sompoli must go off on 10th at latest to catch Ludlow at Pasu Sefu. If he can't go by then, he must join me or go back to Kalimpong by himself. The valley here is very pretty now, with the beautiful pink fields of buckwheat scattered over the valley bottom, and in places along the sides too. I don't remember noticing this so much before. HH seems to think that he will have some kind of bridge made over the Tang Chu before very long - in a month he suggests. I do hope so, as it will save us a long chukker again. I have tried to work out how long it will take Pasang and Mundrup to get the two primulas on the Tumle La, then to Tongsa and then to collect all plants from Ludlow's area. I think it will take 6 days from Chendesi to Ritang or back to Chendesi, and altogether from here 11 days, which will take 4 to Chendesi or 5 to Ritang. So if we start on 15th we will reach Ritang on 19th, and Pasang must start on 9th to reach Ritang or Chendesi on the 19th.

SUMMARY:
The diary records a halt with fine weather, Tsonpen’s recovery, collecting G. Waltoni seeds, paying off coolies, and concern about snow on the Drichung La and Le La while planning to reach Chayul to meet Tenduk and Danang. The next day brought strong winds, continued seed searches including Ceratostigma, and frustration that many seeds (Primula, Meconopsis, Rhododendron) were eaten by bugs.

CONTENT:
...been bad enough for that. We got a pretty good collection of ripe seeds of Gent. Waltoni, but otherwise nothing.

29th October. Halt. Fine all day, but clouded in the morning: much new snow near the Kashong La. Tsonpen is much better today, & should be fit by the morning. Collected two more packets of G. Waltoni. Paid off all coolies at the rate of 3 shao a day. I am now anxious to get to Chayul, & meet Tenduk & Danang & hear how they have got on. There is a lot of snow up the Drichung La range, & I hope there has not been too much on the Le La. The gyunpo says the Drichung La is never closed, but sometimes after snow, they cannot cross it for a few days.

30th October. Kap. 8m. A beautiful morning till 11.0, then clouded over snow on the hills all round. A very strong cold wind blowing up the valley. Got a few more G. Waltoni seed, searched for Ceratostigma seed. But we could only find four seeds. Every bush has been attacked by some bug & all seeds eaten, most annoying. I wonder if this year is specially bad that way, because nearly all seeds have been eaten, Primula, Meconopsis & worst of all, Rhododendron.

SUMMARY:
Halted in rain; the Jongpen asked to go to Trashigang for dancing during a Bhutan festival called Tü, and with few flowers or ferns left they began collecting fungi. The next day, still halted at Rocha Chu in heavy rain, the party split up to hunt “binain dum” birds, with Puibo, Ludlow, and Danang taking different guns and achieving mixed results, including a shot that struck both the bird and the narrator.

CONTENT:
94

23rd Sept. Halted. The weather broke again, and it
Rhod. lindleyi 976 rained all day. The Jongpen came up yesterday
to ask if he could go to Trashigang for the
dancing. This is some kind of 'Bara Din' in
Bhutan, called Tü. As there are no flowers
Fungi. left now, and we have most of the local ferns, we
Calocera viscosa 973 have started collecting fungus. But we cannot give
Amylaria himalaica 974? them the proper treatment. They just get dried in the bird
Craterellus cornucopioides 977 tent.
Stereum multizonatum 978

24th Sept. Halted. Rain most of the day, and heavily
Rocha Chu all afternoon. As this was our last day here, and
Birds we still wanted some "binain dum" birds
(puepygas) we split up. Puibo took the 12 bore,
Ludlow and I had the 410's and Danang took the 22
rifle. The result was hardly as good as we
expected. Puibo blew one to bits by being far
too close, Ludlow and I saw none, and Danang, who
saw four, missed them all, as he did not
understand the aim of the rifle. But I met him,
and gave him some instruction. After that he and
I heard one, and stalked it. During the stalk
he managed to place the bird between us. There
is no stopping Danang if he sees a 'binain dum',
and he fired, getting the bird and bits of me beyond.

SUMMARY:
The diarist halts at Sanden and makes an early ascent to the Nyungsang La to take bearings and panoramas, noting clear views toward Mago, Milakatung La, and near Tsona after recent poor weather in Bhutan. Mago lamas arrive with some seeds; Danang is sent to the Bum La to collect white Meconopsis and Primulas, while previously bagged seed flowers from July are brought in. Plans and routes for retrieving seed bags and collecting around Bum La, Takpa, Tsona, and Mago are outlined.

CONTENT:
112

retrieve seed bags left in these places. The missing dak is not traced yet, but at least it seems that it has not gone as far from its P.O. as Trashigang.
Danang(?) to Bum La, Takpa and to Tsona, or there to Mago - all to collect seeds.

19th October. Halt Sanden. A perfect day. Mist was low & it rained a spot or two in the evening, then cleared up by 10 pm to a beautiful night. I left in the early morning before light (5:30) & went up quickly to the Nyungsang La to take bearings & panoramas of the country to the North. Rough sketch opposite. The Mago hills (West of Mago) were very fine, but clouded over soon after 9:00 am. I could see to the Milakatung La, & to some hills near Tsona. The air was an absolute treat after all the dampness & beastliness we have had so much of in Bhutan. And it will be fine tomorrow too. When I returned I found the Mago lamas had just arrived & brought some seed. They have no white Meconopsis seeds, but have the small Tulung La one. Also Thalictrum, & an assortment of rubbish which they thought might be of use. But Danang is off (horridus 659) to the Bum La & should get the white Meconopsis up there, besides some Primulas. The seed flowers which I bagged here in July were brought in yesterday. There are only a few, but I think I can get more.

Ludlow p. 148. S. went to the Nyung Sang La for a beautiful view of Tawang & the peaks to the East of it - the same peaks we saw looking West from Mago.

SUMMARY:
Halted at Pangotang due to persistent rain while Pasang and Mundon went to Kantanang for Primula reticulata seed; H.H. sent a Bhutanese blanket, causing concern about excess baggage. The camp was crowded with Drogpas and Tibetans returning from the Mela via the Monlakarchung La; Danang is unfit and may join later instead of going to Ludlow, and lack of yak prevented a planned trip to Tolegang.

CONTENT:
14th September. Halt at Pangotang. Wet all day. Pasang & Mundon went off for 3 days to Kantanang. The only thing I know I want from there is seed of a primula called reticulata, which was very pretty. But it will likely not be ready yet. We can wait longer though for Kantanang. It is not important, & the other places must take preference. H.H. is making me very embarrassed. He has now sent a very fine Bhutanese blanket. I don't know what to do with it & had told him I did not need any bedding at all. I fear Hicks & I may have to carry a good many unwanted things away with us - unwanted by me anyway. Pangotang is a regular Piccadilly Circus today, with all the Drogpas coming back from the Mela. Tibetans too are camped beside me on their way back over the Monlakarchung La. H.H. said it was a success, they had good weather. He tells me Danang is still not fit, which presumably means that he cannot go to Ludlow now, but will have to join me when he is alright. It will be a sad blow to Ludlow, although I believe Ramzana has seen almost all that Danang saw on their way East.

15th Sept. Halt. No yak turned up today, so I did not go out to Tolegang as intended. Very heavy rain again last night, & a good deal today too. Sat in camp all day practically, & did nothing but write a